Tarpon Lodge in Pineland, Florida - Looking Back in Time on Pine Island

Pine Island lies just west of Cape Coral. In addition to the excellent fishing, talented artists, and ancient archaeological sites...there are also several utterly unique "Old Florida" experiences not to be missed. Chief among these is the Tarpon Lodge Sportsman Inn, Restaurant, and Bar located on the northwest coast of Pine Island in Pineland.

From Cape Coral, the ride to Pineland is scenic and relaxing. A straight shot down Pine Island Road takes me past thick native vegetation. Fishermen and artists bump shoulders with photographers and eco-tourists amidst the hallucinogenic colors of Matlacha. Then it's a quick and quiet jaunt through the stark alien landscape of the Little Pine Island wetland restoration area.

From the four-way stop sign at the center of Pine Island, I turn right onto Stringfellow road. Grand entrances to half-built subdivisions encroach on the scenic space, threatening the future of long enduring roadside vegetable vendors and the lush, desolate labyrinths of palm tree nurseries. The onward push for bigger, better, faster, more is visible, even here.

A fish-emblazoned sign at the corner of a side street points the way to the Tarpon Lodge. Magnificent shell mounds raise the ground on the right side of the road. Sparkling Pine Island Sound soon comes into view on the left. A short distance ahead stands the stately Tarpon Lodge Sportsman Inn and Restaurant. It's right across the road from the Calusa Heritage Trail and practically next-door to the home of New York Times best-selling author, Randy Wayne White.

The main building was originally built in 1926 by the Wilson family. Later on it was owned and operated by I.B. and Mary Hunt Jones as the Pine-Aire Lodge. In 1986, an additional dormitory building was added to the former Pine-Aire Lodge property. For the next ten years the property was known as The Cloisters, a drug and alcohol rehabilitation center. It wasn't until 2000 when Robert and Phyllis Wells (who also own the restaurant at Cabbage Key) purchased the complex. They renovated the main building and dormitory into a restaurant and hotel...the present day Tarpon Lodge. It opened for business in June of 2001. When Hurricane Charley made landfall on Pine Island on August 13, 2004, it severely damaged the roof of the main structure, flooding the main dining room. Most of the windows were shattered and all of the docks were destroyed. After the storm, work ensued, and the property was restored again. The restaurant reopened on December 15, 2004. The Inn reopened during the New Year's holiday and immediately hosted a family gathering for former President Jimmy Carter and his family.

Royal palms and banana tree leaves shade the front entrance. Red flowers and green leaves come alive in the soft breeze as I walk by them on my way to check in to an overnight room. A quick tour and gracious hospitality are immediately offered by the kind woman behind the desk. After my Tarpon Lodge orientation, it's out to the car to gather the wife and belongings...we're officially on Island Time.

Pineland is as laid back as it gets. This isn't glitzy-neon Florida. This isn't sweaty South Beach, or posh Worth Ave, or tacky Panama City, or plastic Orlando. Even Sanibel and Captiva look overpopulated and hectic when compared against Pineland. People who visit the Tarpon Lodge don't end up here on accident...they usually come here looking for one of a few things: fishing, history, nature, romance or solitude. If they're lucky, they'll get a mixture of them all.

There are several types of rooms available at the Tarpon Lodge, but space is limited...especially during the tourist and tarpon seasons. The small number of rooms available adds to the allure of the lodge, and allows the staff to accomplish their goal of hands-on, personal service for each guest they host.

The 1926 historic house has nine rooms. Even though this building has been renovated several times, you'd never know it. A lot of antique materials still exist. Most rooms even still have the original hardwood floors. Some of the rooms in the main building have water-views. All of them have convenient access to the restaurant and lounge. Another major selling point is that these rooms offer the distinctive opportunity to become a part of Pine Island history by staying overnight in one of the oldest buildings on the Island.

There is one cottage and a restored 1926 boathouse. Both have kitchenettes, porches, and fantastic water views. These options are perfect for those planning extended stays.

Our room is in the Island House, a stilt building behind the main building. There are twelve rooms in this building. Six of them have a water-view. All of the water-view rooms in the Island House have small balconies facing west, allowing a one-of-a-kind vantage point to mind-blowing, Pine Island Sound sunsets. We're lucky enough to have snagged one of the water-view rooms even though our visit is halfway through tarpon season.

The room is comprised of a comfortable bed, a lamp, an armoire with a small television and a private bathroom. The most important feature is the balcony overlooking the pool, the tropically-manicured grounds and Pine Island Sound. There's no phone in the room. There's no wireless internet access, either. Both of those can be had in the main building...but I've come here to disconnect from the electronic ties that bind me everywhere else.

Once every thing's lugged up from the car and we're settled, it's out to the balcony with a freshly popped bottle of red wine and two glasses. A couple wicker chairs and a table await us, along with all the glory of unspoiled Southwest Florida.

A steady, cooling breeze caresses our skin and flirts with our hair. Alternating patterns of bright sunlight and cloud shadows intermingle on the well-kept lawn stretching towards the water. A few errant seagrape leaves blow across the grass. Love bugs mate mid-air. A green anole extends its brightly colored dewlap and bobs up and down. Our entire view is of an unhurried and idyllic paradise...swaying palms, huge watercolor skies, and the wide expanse of Pine Island Sound.

The horizon is occupied by steadfast and uncelebrated islands and keys. Wood Key. Black Key. Part Island. Inaccessible by foot or car, these unspoken-about places play at the imagination. Who owns them? Does anyone live on them? Minds wander to the ancient Calusa heritage of this area, filling in these blank islands with colorful and storied pasts. Shell mounds. Unfound Indian art. Sacred burial grounds. Untold secrets.

Birds break the surface of of the water, diving beneath to hunt for fish. Fish break the surface of the air, jumping up to grasp at bugs. Small boats ride the borderlands, skimming across the rumpled surface of Pine Island Sound, sometimes docking at the Tarpon Lodge, sometimes heading for the Pineland Marina conveniently located nearby.

An excited couple, in their early forties, emerge onto a balcony a few rooms away. They're on vacation, and they've just checked in at the Tarpon Lodge. Within minutes they're down at the pool in bathing suits, all huge smiles. This is the place they've been looking forward to visiting, marking big black X's each day on their calendar, an excruciating countdown. Now they're finally here and they immerse themselves into the experience of Southwest Florida as quickly as they immerse themselves into the outdoor pool. That's all it takes. A commitment to relax.

I love watching them gaze in wide-eyed wonder at the newness around them. With the curiosity of babies, they've emerged from the womb of their normal lives into the wonder of a place so utterly different. Their heads rotate in wide arcs, taking the scenery in. When you find yourself gazing skyward in appreciation you'll know you've begun to unwind. Wild eyes absorb the tropical moments, romanticizing, writing to memory. Between playful splashes in the pool they reconnect in ways only a change of scenery can allow.

The lure of the landscape is strong. Before long we're out of our chairs and exploring the Tarpon Lodge grounds by foot. We walk beneath flowers and foliage, low-hanging leaves and blossoms tickle our exposed skin. The rejuvenative scent of salt water is pervasive, massaging us with aromatherapy. The material of a shaded hammock hungrily grips at the curves of our bodies as we gently sway back and forth. Then it's off for a tryst with the virgin-white gazebo. We escape the sun by running beneath long-fronded coconut palms. We gaze up at their clusters of exotic fruit and run our hands along the ridged terrain of their stone hard trunks. Out on the dock, it's tongues of water lapping at wood, birds singing suggestive mating songs, and fish frantically splashing...all beneath the tattered linen of Egyptian cotton clouds. In less than a half hour we've gotten intimate with nature.

In the Tarpon Lodge dining room and lounge it's come as you are or as you want to be. This is a Sportsman Inn on Pine Island. It can be a colorful melting-pot of an affair at times. It's a place where millionaire boat enthusiasts bump shoulders with young couples looking for romance. Vegan eco-activists dine in the same room as crusty fishermen and archeology professors. Differing styles of dress and speech are the backdrop of the social scene at the Tarpon Lodge. Some of the guests want to engage in polite conversation, others want to be left alone with their books and thoughts.

The service staff adds its own tones to the lively and vibrant mix, tones of the varied places they've ventured from on their journey to end up here, tones of the high level of service the management expects them to provide. For a place off the beaten path, and on an island known for the carefree nature of its service employees, General Manager Rob Wells III has amassed a staff he can truly be proud of. In all interactions our needs were anticipated and catered to, most often with a mind-boggling accuracy.

The lounge at the Tarpon Lodge is reminiscent of an old-fashioned New England style pub, something from Revolutionary War days. Magnificent dark wood floors run past a cavernous bar towards a primitive brick fireplace. Tasteful tall vases filled with beach sand and lightning whelk shells serve as candle-holders for large white candles which glimmer dimly every evening. Trophy fish are mounted on the wall, along with the hideous saw of a small-tooth sawfish (now a protected endangered species). Simple photographs of ancient fishing conquests abound. Sack-back Windsor chairs line several tables, and personalities from all across Pine Island come to indulge in the libations and excellent food.

Three unshaven men, fresh from a day on the water, crowd the small bar trading emphatic fish stories. A married couple, from nearby Bokeelia, dine from the lounge menu. From across the room they engage my wife in conversation...life on the island, trips to Hong Kong and Dubai, the presidential race. Between the twists and turns of an animated discussion, the wife and I share a Caribbean Shrimp, Mushroom and Spinach Dip appetizer. Topped with Monterey Jack cheese and served with seasoned croutons, the subtle curry flavor of the dip was a pleasant surprise.

The amiable hostess introduces herself and explains how the Chef at the Tarpon Lodge, Jethro Joseph, hails from Grand Cayman. He loves to blend fresh Southwest Florida ingredients with Caribbean spices when creating his unique menu items. The end result is some of the region's most innovative food. Traditional classics given a South Florida update share menu space with fresh catch delicacies, while exotic flavors of the Cayman Islands reveal themselves in surprising and unexpected places.

The Tarpon Lodge Restaurant is consistently rated at four stars by visiting food critics. Live music, of the easy listening variety, is scheduled a couple times a week. There is an exquisitely appointed indoor dining room, but the tables you want here are out on the screened dining patio overlooking the postcard-perfect sunset on Pine Island Sound.

The hostess seats us at a corner table on the patio with an unobstructed water view. The live musical guests this evening are the David Sarchet Trio. Their blending of classic and modern jazz stylings mix with the fresh Florida air and provide the perfect atmospheric backdrop for a magical dining experience.

Within moments, our professional server provides proper wine service on the bottle we chose from the limited and affordable wine list. Glasses full of Steele Pinot Noir are raised for a toast in the dusky light. Crystal clinks, and our leisurely-paced meal begins.

Salads, bigger than life, appear before us. My wife goes with a Green Leaf Spinach Salad made with baby spinach leaves topped with roasted red pepper and mushrooms, finished with a warmed sweet bacon vinaigrette. The fluctuation of temperatures plays with our senses. Crisp cool spinach collides with the warm bacon dressing...absolutely stunning.

Mine is a Hearts of Palm Asian Salad. Tangy hearts of palm and sweet snowpeas tossed with mixed field greens and crispy fried wonton strips, which add an extra crunchy texture to the salad. All of it is lightly smothered in an Asian vinaigrette with sesame and ginger tones. Magnificent.

My wife's Pine Island Sound Crab Cakes definitely live up to the legendary word-of-mouth status they've earned over the past couple years. Jumbo lump crab meat combined with Chef Jethro Joseph's inimitable blend of seasonings, formed into two gargantuan crab cakes and sauteed until done. They are wisely paired with a garlic aioli which complements the flavors of the crab cakes nicely. This is Southwest Florida food done right.

My choice is a sought-after fresh catch special that's hard to track down, but oh-so-worth-it when it's found...Sauteed Local Tripletail. I was so delighted to hear our server verbal the dish at the beginning of our meal. Tripletail is something of a closely-held fisherman's secret here in South Florida...delicate, flaky, pearly flesh with a mild, slightly-meaty flavor completely unique unto itself. The Tarpon Lodge is one of the few local restaurants which offers this fish regularly. If you ever see it offered - get it, you will not be disappointed.

Chef Joseph did it right, again, with the tripletail...just a gentle saute with salt and pepper. That's all it asks for. This is a fish which doesn't need to hide beneath sauces. It's enjoyed best out in the open, on it's own merit, minimalist, and pure....and enjoy it I did!

Somewhere along the line the sun dips below the horizon and a pastel explosion splatters across the sky. Long shadows fall beneath the palm trees and the playful jazz music wanders out into the darkness of nighttime air on the coastline. One by one, the other diners leave the screened patio until we're the last two people there, our only company a few sips of red wine and what remains of a decadent chocolate dessert. Island-induced bliss.

Back at the room, my wife takes a long, hot shower. I decide to wait for her on the balcony. Nighttime is in full bloom and a wall of spotlights shine up from the ground illuminating the undersides of several palm trees and the gazebo. The closed swimming pool still glows against the darkness. Is there anything more inviting than the computer-blue glow of a swimming pool at night?

Within seconds I'm stripped to my boxer shorts and jogging down the Island House hallway. I descend the set of stairs and surreptitiously slip inside the gate surrounding the pool. I look nervously around, but no one's watching. I break the hotel rules by sliding into the refreshing neon water of a pool closed for the night.

My surroundings are as vivid as a pleasant and otherworldly dream. Majestic, dark palm trees show in silhouettes against the night-tide sky. The tropical air has cooled drastically. A soft chlorine scent emanates from the water, then disappears each time the light breeze of pristine air picks up again. Fresh air. Pine-Aire.

Off in the distance, purple and white electricity dances in the form of silent heat lightning. Twinkling, white Christmas lights ride the perimeter of the historic inn, strung along the full length of the eaves. The blue-tinted haze of half-watched TV screens smolders from the windows of overnight rooms, where adventure-weary travelers drift off toward dreams.

The pool light reflects off the gentle waves I'm creating and flashes across my skin in streaks and blurs. The only sound is the desert-island rustle of palm fronds in the invisible breeze and the electric whir of an improperly balanced ceiling fan on the porch of the Island House.

I ease onto my back and let the water support me. Weightless, I float on the surface, eyes aimed skyward. The stars above glow with a ferocity and brightness I've never witnessed before, huge burning spheres, floating in the sky as I float in this pool.

I look at the heavens and look back in time, witnessing antique light finishing its impossibly long journey towards Earth. The starlight I see tonight began its trek long before the Tarpon Lodge existed. Before the Cloisters. Before the Pine-Aire Lodge. Before the Wilson family cleared this land or built this house. The starlight I see tonight was formed when Calusa Indians ruled this piece of land, when the only other light was thrown forth by campfires, and the stars were looked to for guidance and wonder.

Australia's Fraser Island - Escape Forever

For all its conveniences, modern living leaves a lot to be desired. We spend our days enduring the ever-increasing pressures of work, the city's oppressive unfriendliness, the daily commuter grind and the aggressive reality of impatient road-ragers.

Is something missing?

Unfortunately, work is a reality for most of us. So too is city and suburban living, dreary weather, pollution, traffic... But it doesn't have to be all there is to life. Try something that puts you in touch with who you really are. Try something elemental. Try something that soothes your soul.

Try Fraser Island.

Fraser Island isn't just an island paradise. It's a unique and luxurious combination of Australia's rich natural heritage, its earthy roots, its wholesome majesty, and its refreshingly simple essentials. It's a chance to touch the fine sands, to drift in the temperate water, to bask in the sun that seems all yours... It's your chance to partake of a life that most Australians have forgotten.

Spend a week on and in turquoise waters, a week without shoes with the sand between your toes, a week fishing and perhaps living off your catch. Your perspective can't help but change.

It's not a mere fleeting appreciation. It's something you take with you.

Fraser can help remind you that you're not your job. How important are the forms and the filing, the meetings and memorandums? You can learn a lot about yourself when you take away all the things that don't matter.

And really... is there any better way to experience this epiphany than in paradise?

Fraser Island certainly is a paradise, no matter which way you look at it. At the southern end of the Great Barrier Reef, and a short boat ride from Hervey Bay in South-East Queensland, Fraser is 124 km from tip to toe and 16 km across the middle. At 163,000 hectares, it's the world's biggest sand island.

Of course, that doesn't mean it's all just sand. Not by a long shot! The whole island is laced with crystal clear fresh water streams, and deep midnight blue fresh water lakes. In fact, with over 40 fresh water lakes - it's home to half of the world's known 'perched' lakes. It also boasts a dazzling diversity of plants and animals (including Australia's purest strain of dingo), and an amazing variety of spectacular landscapes, from 120 km of non-stop tropical beach to dense and towering rainforest, weathered headland to ochre gorge, inspiring cliffs to wandering dunes, eerie mangroves to wind-blown salt pans.

What's more, you have your choice of accommodation, so you can choose your own level of 'communion with nature'. From 4½ star luxury resorts to rental retreats to motels and units, right through to the good 'ole campsite. Whether you're a sucker for a bit of pampering, or you're perfectly at home with a tent and a campfire on the beach, Fraser is a great provider.

And great accommodation is just the start... The island boasts average temperatures of 29°c in summer and 22°c in winter, so it's no surprise that outdoor activities feature prominently on the agenda. Adrenalin addicts and dedicated sunbathers alike will appreciate the vast range available. From sunrise to sunset (and beyond), there's always something for everyone. The only problem is choosing! Fishing, 4-wheel-driving, eating, sailing, bird-watching, bush-walking, swimming, eating, whale & dolphin-watching, shipwreck exploration, eating, beauty therapy, massage, lazing in the sun, eating, beach volleyball, tennis, cricket, eating, canoeing, sailboarding, snorkelling, eating... And needless to say, a few quiet drinks might make their way onto the agenda as well...

With so much to offer, it's no surprise that the Fraser Island was originally known as K'gari - or 'Paradise' - by local Aboriginal peoples.

Fraser Island certainly is "paradise for everyone"!

Four Wheel Driving

Being a sand island, the only mode of land transport is 4WD. Of course, for many visitors, that's the main attraction. 4WD enthusiasts from all around the world visit Fraser Island to pit themselves and their vehicles against the rugged terrain found all over the island. From the hard-packed seashore to the shifting dune to the forests of the interior, Fraser Island is the ideal 4WD location.

Don't be scared though - it's not all about extreme driving for experts! Whether you're an novice, or you just prefer a more leisured pace of life, you'll find a much more sedate satisfaction in one of the many organised 4WD tours offered around the island. Or if you just want to get out on your own, you can hire a 4WD for a day, and indulge in a bit of quiet exploring.

No matter which option you choose, though, there are a few 'ground rules' you should observe. Remember the dangers of driving on the beach. The further you adventure from the shoreline, the softer the sand. The softer the sand, the more likely you are to get into trouble. Generally speaking, keep your speed down, and remember you're in a World Heritage listed environment... so be careful.

Fishing

No island holiday would be complete without a lazy day or two spent fishing. Beach fishing is the big drawcard for Fraser Island. And with 150 km of ocean beach to choose from, why wouldn't it be? Middle Rocks, Sandy Cape, Waddy Point, and Seventy Five Mile Beach are just a few of the choice locations available for you to finally get the better of 'the one that got away'.

The famed 'tailor run' occurs on the eastern (ocean) side of the island between July and October each year. In the angling world, this time - known as 'tailor season' - is a much anticipated event, with huge schools of big fish working the beaches. But if you can't make it between late winter and early spring, rest assured, tailor season is just one date to mark in your calendar. The western side of Fraser has been known to reward the odd angler with a fine bag of bream, whiting and flathead.

Long Island, Bahamas: This True Quiet Island Getaway Must Be One Of The Best Romantic Islands!

While searching online for a true quiet island getaway, I happened across Long Island, Bahamas, a small island eighty miles long and only three miles wide, aptly named "Long Island," one of the southern most out islands in the Bahamas.

As I began to read about the lack of tourism, the beautiful stretched out and secluded beaches on both the Atlantic and the Caribbean sides of the island, I found myself already beginning to relax and envisioned myself strolling down an incredibly beautiful beach for hours without a care in the world...

Continuing my education, I began to soak up the laid back way of life. I felt a major urge to get myself to this island and the sooner, the better.

Like a dream come true, as I begin to write this, I am sitting on the porch of a wonderful, romantic cottage, The Whistling Duck, located south of Clarence Town.

Our small 20 seats or so plane landed at Deadman's Cay Airport (Cay is pronounced "key" in the Bahamas) at the southern end of the island. We were greeted by Nancy, the caretaker for the owners or our private cottage, who drove us to The Whistling Duck.

She was friendly, had a hearty Bahamian laugh, and offered to help us with anything (including a rental car which we took advantage of our second day). She said she was a phone call away if we had any questions.

On our flight from Nassau to Deadman's Cay, we found ourselves already wondering what might be the best thing about what we would end up calling "The Other Long Island"...

It certainly could be the incredible water. There are the most beautiful hues of Caribbean and Atlantic blues from clear to light blue to aqua to turquoise to deep bluish-purple to varying oceanic shades of green, I have ever seen.

Then again it might be the amazingly secluded beaches with soft sands, good shell hunting and the constant soothing rhythm of crashing waves. Wait, it's probably that Long Island has the most down to earth, friendly people on the planet.

If you have a craving for quiet adventure, there are many small roads angling off the single north and south main road, Queen's Highway. Every one of the small, mainly dirt or sand "car paths" must lead to a new head shaking "Wow!" view and experience.

No, actually it's got to be the water sports from snorkeling, diving, sailing, boating, fishing, to kayaking.

In hindsight, the best thing about The Other Long Island may be one of the sights or activities that we didn't get to, such as caving or who knows what!

The most appealing aspect could be a combination of any of the above, or maybe it's simply completely relaxing, being away from all the stress of work and city life.

This island takes your imagination back in time to what the Bahamas used to be like. Amenities are few. The food is great. Supplies are limited but available if you find out where and when to go. Bahamian and U.S. dollars are interchangeable. The people are warm, always seem to have a welcoming smile planted on their friendly faces and more than hospitable and helpful.

The Whistling Duck cottage was everything it had looked to be on the website and more. Our fowl feather namesake cottage had a perfect covered front porch with a double wicker swing, gas barbecue grill and two teak and canvas chairs to sit and soak up the views of the Atlantic and the harbor at Clarence Town.

We quickly discovered this was the perfect spot to sip morning coffee or tea, read to our hearts content, or simply relax.

There is another deck off the bedroom, complete with two chaise lounges and an outdoor shower, the one I used all week. Ceiling fans in the living room, kitchen area and the bedroom help keep the interior comfortable with constant man-made breezes.

There is a gazebo at the water's edge where we hung out absorbing the water's sights and sounds and spent time reading throughout the week. Nice bath and beach towels are included. A kayak is available for a small deposit. Laundry facilities are located at the Flying Fish Marina if needed. For an additional fee you can have Nancy clean the cottage each day.

Two bikes were included with the cottage and provided exercise and transportation for our first days' adventure on the island to check out Clarence Town.

We filled our backpack with supplies from one of the two small stores and befriended a small boy, Horace, at the True Value food and sundry store. Horace seemed truly intrigued by my silver and blue Asics running shoes, shown by the awe in his big eyes when he reached down to touch them.

We quickly discovered that a car was a must if we really wanted to explore the island. Riding eighty miles on bikes one way to get to the northern tip of our quiet island getaway was simply too much.

By the way, be sure to take enough cash as some of the rental car operators do not accept credit cards. (If you think gas is expensive in the U.S., check out the $6.10 per gallon in the Bahamas, and this is in 2008!).

The tourist map of Long Island is like a cartoon and makes it look like all the roads on the island are paved. If you have an adventuresome spirit, don't be surprised when taking one of the many off-shooting roads from Queen's Highway to suddenly find yourself on a small, rocky, car-width path that looks like it is going nowhere.

Rest assured that slow going and patience will pay off with breathtaking rewards as the startling, beautiful ocean views provide stimulating visual overload, especially on the Caribbean side of the island.

Throughout our first week of July visit, there was a constant breeze. The various bird species were gaily singing each morning. We fairly quickly found out why the cottage was named The Whistling Duck! There is indeed such a flying feather friend on the island!

The hummingbirds were busy flitting from flower to flower during the day. My better half unknowingly imitated a flower one afternoon while wearing a bright yellow top and had to gently wave to get a hummingbird to leave her alone.

The humidity was very high and sweatily noticeable. The combination of being in the shade and the breeze was very nice and the best place to be unless we were in the water. Working out on the front deck each morning got me drenched within minutes. The ocean view definitely kept me inspired!

On day two, Nancy dropped off the rental car we had arranged the day before and we set out on our first driving adventure. Using the tourist map, we headed south to Hard Bargain, one of some thirty plus townships up and down the island.

We entertained ourselves by pretending to figure out how Hard Bargain got its name and came up with numerous possibilities. Turning east on a small gravel road, we headed toward the Caribbean side of the island and ended up by the abandoned salt fields of the Diamond Crystal Salt Company.

In the days before refrigeration, salt was used to preserve meats and fish for ships setting out to sea and had been a huge business. We thought we were lost when we rounded a curve in the road and simultaneously gasped at the incredible, stunning spectrum of light blue Caribbean waters. This may have been the most beautiful vision of ocean water either one of us has ever seen!

Following the sand and gravel road, we returned to Queen's Highway (a fairly small, two lane blacktop road which runs almost the entire north-south length of the island) and headed north. For the most part, the drive is not very exciting. There are occasional ocean views on one side or the other. Taking almost any side road will likely lead to beautiful ocean views, a deserted beach, and a new adventure.

Wanting to check out the Stella Maris Resort, built in the 1960's, we found ourselves standing on a hill in the middle of the resort where we could see the deep almost purple-blue waters of the Atlantic looking one way and the stellar, azure blue rainbow waters of the Caribbean by simply turning our heads 180 degrees, which was quite astonishing.

The Stella Maris Resort is large and is the only place on the island with tennis courts. We noticed several for sale signs in the front of a few of the homes located within the resort, and found ourselves wishfully wondering... Sigh.

Lunching at the resort overlooking the beach, we found the food and service were okay but could use some quality improvement. We did not get to see what are apparently some of the best plantation ruins on the island, which are located on the resort property.

We had hoped to make it all the way to the northern tip of the island to see one of the other two resorts, Cape Santa Maria and the Christopher Columbus Monument, but decided we were running out of time. We will make sure we see both on our next visit.

Wonderfully, the remainder of the week we had no plans whatsoever and each morning casually decided what we would do for the next few hours. No stress, no phones, no technology, no traffic, no rushing around. Simply the constant caressing breezes and soothing sounds of the Atlantic waves to relax us, stimulate our senses and soothe our souls.

We enjoyed taking long walks on Lochabar Beach. We quickly realized that getting to the beach from the gazebo was much easier at low tide, which had to be lower than high tide by at least three to four feet.

We found numerous small conch shells and two large conchs with the most beautiful deep pink on the inside, sand dollars, and lots of smaller shells throughout the week.

Walking to the right for about thirty minutes on Lochabar Beach, we rounded the bend and encountered a huge blue hole. Blue holes immediately plummet from the surrounding shallow sandy waters to fairly extreme depths.

One of our coolest adventures was to see the deepest blue hole in the world. Dean's Blue Hole is located at Long Island and goes to a depth of around 660 feet! We were told that the second largest known underwater cavern in the world is at the bottom of Dean's Blue Hole.

We had a wonderful picnic here one afternoon, just the two of us. I was rather nervous contemplating snorkeling out into Dean's Blue Hole and I decided it must have been the extreme unknown of what lies in the depths below. Locals dive from the low cliffs on the backside of the hole and swim in its waters all the time.

My better and much prettier half, had no issues swimming out into the middle of Dean's Blue Hole... and loves giving me trouble about being a chicken to this day!

The third morning, I called Nancy to find out where to get fresh fish, thinking there had to be plenty in the Bahamas. She mentioned Nick the fisherman and gave us his number. I left a message and he called us back a few hours later.

Nick the fisherman said he had grouper and red snapper he had caught the day before. It turned out Nick, his wife and six children lived at the end of our sandy, gravel road. It took five minutes to walk up the hill to his house where we were met by a welcoming version of man's best friend, who ran up to us wagging his tail excitedly and definitely got our petting attention.

There was a fair amount of miscellaneous underwater sonar equipment and three fishing boats in the yard. It was evident this family spent a lot of time by, in, on or under the water.

Nick greeted us warmly and invited us in.

There were attention-grabbing shark jaws mounted on the wall in order from small and harmless looking, to, "no way you want to encounter one of these in the water," holy sh_ _! large jawed, teeth filled specimens.

Nick shared a little about how they ended up on Long Island. We learned he was from Nassau. Nick and his wife Fiona have four boys and two girls.

Twenty-three years ago he came up with the idea to create a native Bahamian calendar, which the entire family now contributes to. It is sold throughout the Bahamas. The artwork is original and each month has native Bahamian tidbits including history and recipes for such things as soup and conch dishes.

We bought two copies at one of the local stores to bring back home with us. We plan to take advantage of some of the local recipes and use them for our next gourmet club dinner in the mode of a Bahamian theme dinner!

Nick started talking about a few of the ship-wrecks he had explored and showed us several items of interest such as one hundred year old antique gin bottles, four hundred year old olive jars, and more.

One of the wrecks he mentioned was a ship called the Southhampton, which prompted me to share that my godson was attending Southhampton University in southern England to get his masters in Marine Archaeology.

Five days later on our way to the airport to leave the island I noticed Nick's royal blue pick-up truck coming toward us. His wife was leaning out the window waving her arms and trying to flag us down.

We pulled over and Nick ran up to our car. He said "I have something for your god-son," and pulled out a small white pipe. He explained he had recovered the pipe from a ship that had purportedly been set ablaze by Blackbeard the Pirate. Nick thought my godson, Tim, would like it. No doubt, Tim will love it!

I have never before experienced this level of friendliness, excitement, exuberance and generosity on a vacation. What an island! Maybe we should keep it a secret. No way, this is a story to share as an example for how the world used to be, in some cases still is, and definitely the way it should be!

The Outer Edge Grill, located by the Flying Fish Marina in Clarence Town, ended up being one of our favorite spots. It is right on the water and is a wonderful place to experience a simple, local flavor for lunch or dinner or to have a drink and dreamily watch the boats, water birds and other creatures.

We had lunch at The Outer Edge Grill several times, enjoying each visit immensely. After one bite we concluded their conch fritters were most likely going to be the best on the island. Cracked conch and grilled grouper made for savory meals.

Everyone at The Outer Edge was very friendly. We enjoyed talking with Hermie and particularly with Stanlika. After my mentioning all the fried food on the island, Stan suggested to special order anywhere to have our food grilled, which was a great tidbit for the rest of our trip.

It was fun checking out the boats coming in and out of the small marina during the week. There were a few fishing boats and some rather large, luxurious vessels as well. Some of the names were Les Belles, Carcharia, Island Hope, Liquid Gold, Island Dream, and Endless Adventure. Home ports included Miami, Coral Gables, and Nassau among others.

Rowdy Boys at the Winter Haven Resort in Clarence Town is by the water on the other side of the small peninsula by the marina. The food was very good and the family that owned it was extremely friendly.

We met the grandmother Chloe and her husband, a granddaughter Justine who waited on us and one of the sons. One afternoon we offered to buy Chloe a drink. She chose a concoction called SkyJuice, consisting of gin and very sweet coconut milk. She soon began sharing some of her family history. She also shared that her son Ben had taken the owners of the yacht Les Belles (see above paragraph) deep-sea fishing. Ben had learned they had no plans and were simply planning their laid back adventure day by day. What a wonderful way to travel the sea!

Chloe and her husband had owned and operated a pineapple and banana farm, which had been destroyed by a hurricane a few years ago. She had tears in her eyes as she shared some of the hardships her family had experienced. Their three boys had argued somewhat loudly through their younger years and had been given the nickname of the 'Rowdy Boys."

Rowdy Boys Construction now builds throughout the Bahamas and had finished The Winter Haven Resort and Rowdy Boys Bar and Restaurant just over a year ago for their parents and family to run. We look forward to visiting Rowdy Boys and this family again.

The Forest Restaurant is three miles south of The Whistling Duck. We had a wonderful dinner of cracked lobster, cracked conch, peas and rice and mashed potatoes here one night. The proprietors, Dudley and Patty, were great.

One afternoon we called in to special order grilled grouper and chicken sandwiches, which were awesome by the way. When we stopped by to pick up our picnic lunch, Dudley waited on us. I shared that my stomach had been off all morning. He insisted on making me a club soda and blackberry brandy to fix me up. They were out of club soda, so he used ginger ale. I told Dudley I did not want any alcohol to no avail as he insisted I drink it straight down. I did so reluctantly and was pleasantly surprised at the taste. Thirty minutes later my stomach felt fine. Nothing like a good ol' local Bahamian medicinal beverage to fix you right up!

We stopped in a few of the small roadside stores to buy water and a handful of food items during the week. Everywhere we went the people were genuinely friendly. We had nothing but extraordinarily wonderful "encounters" with Long Island folk the entire week.

The Oasis Bakery outside of Clarence Town has wonderful home-baked breads, including whole wheat and multi-grain, cookies and decadent local desserts. You can order sandwiches for takeaway (the island term for "to go") or eat outside at the bakery. We observed it was common for small establishments to have a small bar onsite, and the Oasis was no exception.

Interesting Places in US Virgin Islands

The United States Virgin Islands (or Virgin Islands in the United States), an area of island in located in the Caribbean, is home to locals who are mostly of African descent. It has three primary islands--Saint Croix (Twin Town), Saint John (Adore Town), and Saint Thomas (Rock City) and one particular little island--Water Island (Modest Town).

It however has smaller islands around it.

It really is in situated east of Puerto Rico and west of the British Virgin Islands. English is the recognized language whilst Spanish and French creole are likewise spoken. Like the majority of Caribbean countries, it is a good spot for summer vacations and activities.

Check out these places and activities that may liven up your Caribbean holiday:

See-Thru Kayak Adventures

In Altoona Lagoon (St. Croix), you may wish to ride a plain kayak so you can enjoy the marine life just below you. If you've never kayaked before, don't worry instructions are given out by the owners.

H2o Sports

Ever tried " angling"? Prepare for a day of deep-sea fishing ( when you are tired of lounging under the sun)! You may likewise want to go sailing and discover the different islands. Boats are rented out for people who need to (and can actually) sail by themselves. Snorkeling and scuba diving are, obviously, are staples.

Festivals and Carnivals

Whatever month you may possibly drop by the US Virgin Islands, there will invariably be an activity that will be awaiting you:

February: St. Croix Agriculture & Food Fair

March: Annual Antique Flea Market at St. Croix

April and May: Carnival Events

June: St. John's Festival

July: The Governor's Cup Boy Scouts Gold Tournament

October: Hispanic Heritage Fiesta

November: Horse Racing Doc James Racetracks

December: Funny Cars Invitations & Miss St. Croix Beauty pageant.

If it all sounds foreign to you, why not make it sound so familiar by trying it all out? Now's the time to give it a trial and feel the colors on the US Virgin Islands' lifestyle!

St Croix - The US Virgin Islands

S

aint Croix is the largest of the US Virgin Islands, which lie 1730 miles east south east of Miami and 93 miles west of Puerto Rico. This section of the Virgin Islands has belonged to the United States since 1917 when they were purchased from the Danish government for $25m in gold to safeguard American coasts from German U-boat attack.

At the time, it was feared that Germany would subjugate the islands and build submarine pens there in order to harass American supply shipping, which was essential to the allies in Europe during the First World War.

The US Virgin islands is a cluster of about 60 chiefly uninhabited islands, the four biggest of which are called St. Croix, St. Thomas, St. John and Water Island. (By the way, 'Saint' is pronounced in the English manner). The Islands' inhabitants, however, have other names for these four which are Twin City, Rock City, Love City and Small City respectively.

Christopher Columbus landed there on November 14th, 1493, but there is evidence of human habitation on the island going back to 5000 BC. In fact, the Arawaks and the Caribs made up the islands' populace, before the Europeans arrived.

Possession of St Croix and the other Virgin Islands changed a lot over the following centuries, but it became famous to many people as Santa Cruz, which is its Spanish name. As Santa Cruz, St Croix featured highly in 17th and 18th century stories of pirates and buccaneers on the Spanish Main.

In fact, after Spain initially took control of the island, it changed hands seven times; having been Spanish, British, French, Maltese, Dutch, Danish and now American. The residents of the US Virgin Islands are now US citizens and carry US passports. They also use the US dollar and US laws.

St Croix was an agricultural powerhouse in the Caribbean until the 1960's when the local government decided it was time to industrialize. The island is now home to HOVENSA, one of the largest oil refineries in the world.

There is also a large distillery, the Cruzan Rum Distillery, which used to make rum from sugar cane grown on the island. Sugar cane, or its extract, molasses are now imported from the Dominican Republic to manufacture Southern Comfort and Cruzan Rum. Diageo is arranging to build a distillery there too in order to produce Captain Morgan Rum.

Residents of the island call themselves Crucians. However, there is a great deal of debate about what makes a 'real Crucian'. Many say that a Crucian is someone who was born and brought up on St Croix, while others claim that descendants of the slaves that the Danes took over in 16th and 17th Centuries are the only true Crucians.

Many Crucians can trace their ancestry back to Puerto Rico or other Virgin islands as the sugar cane industry attracted a lot of migrant workers in the 1930's, 40's and 50's. There was also an inflow of down-islanders (ie from other Caribbean islands), as the locals say, after the industrialization of St Croix in the US Virgin Islands in the 1960's and 1970's as tourism and petrol became more central to the economy.

Tropical Island Vacation

While country retreats, city breaks and resort escapes are all good, nothing beats the profligacy of an island get-away. With palms swaying in the wind, crisp white sand and beautiful turquoise waters, islands are a popular holiday spot for vacationers. Below are some beautiful locales that not only proffer breathtaking landscapes and effusive warm climate, but also feature leisure activities, adventure sports, and once-in-a-lifetime experiences.

Jamaica

Jamaica is an island nation situated in the Caribbean Sea. It is 234 kilometers in length and about 80 kilometers in width. This beautiful retreat provides an atmosphere of tranquility and harmony accented by marvelous natural beauty and eternal sunshine. For a small island, the diversity of the Jamaican landscape is quite remarkable.

Its topography varies from wide flatlands in the south to slender coastal plains and through the spectacular limestone scenery of the interior to the powerful Blue Mountains, which max out at about 2220m. The vegetation is abundant in the north and the beaches are all white sand, making the island tremendously attractive to vacationers. The island has some idyllic tropical vacation resorts, as well as luxury villas, some with private pools.

Hawaii

Floating amidst the Pacific Ocean, miles off the coast of USA, Hawaii has an area of about 4,028 square miles. Despite the small size, this tropical island is a world of wonders. With soaring cliffs to the huge chasms, Hawaii enchants the senses like no other island. One finds everything one requires to enjoy a tropical vacation here. There is tremendous natural beauty here such as blue beaches, magnificent volcanoes, stunning waterfalls, sanctuaries, etc. to contemporary wonders such as Hi-rise buildings, stadiums, and modern transportation facilities.

Hawaii is a beautiful resort destination with modern accommodations. The island has definitely paved the way to successful Tourism.

Island Of Sisley

The Island of Sisley is the largest Mediterranean island and an independent region of Italy, separated by the Strait of Messina. Sicily provides a vacationer with many amazing opportunities and makes for a great tropical vacation spot. Beside the varied landscape, there are several historical and cultural traces. There are valleys, green hills, and beautiful mountain offering ever-changing sights to nature lovers. The numerous historical monuments provide a glimpse of the culture of the Siculi, Romans, Greeks, Normans, Arabs, and Spaniards. The whole island is breathtakingly beautiful.

Sicily also offers glances of cultural heritage with Roman Amphitheaters, Greek temples, Castes and cathedrals, and the royal buildings in Palermo.

The Maldives

If your idea of a perfect tropical vacation is landing on a pristine island with beautiful palm trees, adventure sports, and white beaches abound with crystalline lagoons of different hues of blue, then a holiday in Maldives Islands will certainly make your dream come true.

Maldives is an island comprising of a cluster of atolls in the middle of the Indian Ocean. It is situated south of Lakshadweep islands, and is south-west of Sri Lanka. While staying in one of the many luxurious resorts in Maldives, one can have fun by participating in water sports like snorkeling, surfing, diving, and much more. Apart from this, this tropical vacation island brims with lush vegetation and all kinds of wild life.

Tropical islands provides extraordinary peace and calm that are so desperately sought by people living a 'big city life'. They are the perfect holiday destination catering to both the younger generation and older souls.

Top 5 Surf Spots in the Virgin Islands

Little is known about the awesome waves and surfs that grace the United States and British Virgin Islands during warm seasons. During this time, roughly from mid-November to late April, waves can reach up to eight-feet in height, and on bigger days may reach as high as double overhead. And although the VIs waters are pretty flat and un-surfable the rest of the year, passing storms on the Northern part can still create some pretty exciting surf.

Here are the top 5 surf spots in the Virgin Islands.

Sprat Bay, Water Island, USVI

A 10-minute ferry ride from St. Thomas, Water Island, is better known for swimming and snorkeling. However, Sprat Bay, near the Island's East End, has hollow, fast, and ledgy right point breaks that suit surfers of any skill level -- including beginners. Settled in a mostly undeveloped island, Sprat Bay does not draw in a heavy crowd; making it a good place for "limin'" (chilling and relaxing).

Hull Bay, St. Thomas, USVI

Hull Bay is perhaps the beach that's most associated with surfing in all of St. Thomas. Located on the island's Atlantic side, the bay produces four to ten-foot point/reef breaks from the swells that come from the Northeast. With fast and powerful ledgy left and right point breaks, as well as having a reef and coral bottom, Hull Bay is recommended only for experienced surfers.

Cane Garden Bay, Tortola, BVI

The point break at Cane Garden Bay generates strong waves wrapping around as they race down the harbour's inside bowl section. Although waves can reach heights of up to fifteen-feet, they need to be over five-feet before the break is surfable. The bay's inside reefs are exposed as the water sucks out, which can be quite risky for beginners.

Long Bay, Tortola, BVI

Long Bay is perfect if you are looking for family friendly surf. The bay is popular with kids and newbies because of its "learner's wave". The beach has long sections of shallow water and has a sandy bottom with soft rocks. Wall after wall of whitewater reforms after the waves break further out, which can be exciting for the kids.

Sandy Spit, Jost Van Dyke, BVI

Surfable four to fifteen-foot waves form as left-hand waves break in front of Sandy Spit. Waves at the Southern tip of this desert island paradise are small but long and curling round the point. The Spit has a coral bottom and have several reefs line up its shore; recommended for experienced surfers.

There are many more surfing spots in the Virgin Islands; some are conveniently located near big towns while some can only be reached by boats. If you ever feel the urge to ride some waves while in the VIs, these are the places to visit.

Sailing the Columbia River and Back Waters, From Astoria to Portland

Three days up the Columbia River

Cast off from Astoria, OR (river mile 15)

I have no need to dream about far off exotic ports that I may never see because first I'm going to explore my own back yard, so to speak. We arranged for our son to drive with us to the coast. The plan was to trailer the sailboat to Astoria and he would bring the trailer back empty, leaving the three of us to fend for ourselves and find our way upriver to our home moorage. The boat ramp at Astoria is convenient and well designed, but the pre-launch area is part gravel parking lot and part muddy field. We parked near another sailboat crew that was busy stepping their mast and rigging the boat. Because of the mud and gravel I decided we would get on off the boat as little as possible while getting ready, so I told my 10 year old to go play on the docks and try to stay away from the Sea Lions that had taken over one entire float. The Sea Lions are so big and crowded that the float is listing and partially submerged. These are some of the same critters that will soon swim the 130 or so miles up river to Bonneville Dam, where they will feast on returning Salmon that pool below the dam.

While rigging the boat, I can hear the group next to us taking instruction from their skipper. I hope I don't sound like that. In a little over an hour were ready to back down the ramp and turn our boat loose. Launching goes off without a hitch, minutes later we are on our way, I turn and watch long enough to see our son turn the correct way towards home. He's on his own and so are we. We quietly float past the Sea Lions; they ignore us as we motor out into the river. Not hint of wind as we point ourselves up stream. The river is smooth and flat; we are about ten miles from the ocean. Other than the rising tide you wouldn't know we at the edge of the largest ocean in the world. The Columbia is about four miles wide at Astoria, with lots of sand bars, and mud flats. There are two navigation channels going up river, one is the main channel where the ships going to Portland must operate or run aground. The other is navigable by small boats and meanders behind grassy islands along the Oregon side. We are not oriented yet; we have our chart, but don't know where we are, so I point us towards what looks like a likely channel with some sort of markers in the distance. We wave to the other sailboat as they go by heading for the main channel. I wonder if they think were lost. We travel about three of four miles and using the binoculars try to spot a number somewhere that we can locate on the chart. I still don't know where we should be heading but I have been studying the shore and don't think we are any where near where the channel goes. Just because the charts lists an Island and you can see an Island doesn't mean your boat belongs next to an Island. I think the river is more like ten miles wide now, so it's easy to get confused. I'm starting to wish we had not left the dock without a better plan than head east and see where you go. We finally are near enough to positively identify a marker and realize we are heading into a dead end. I change course and cut across an area that the chart shows as having only one foot of water at mean low low tide. Our depth sounder says about eight feet are under us, but I'm very nervous since our keel is down about six feet. Running aground isn't the only worry, running into a deadhead or submerged piling is a very real possibility, and a good reason to go slow.

In short order as we get close to the Oregon shore we spot some markers that correspond to our chart and finally know where we are. The wind picks up a little and we are sailing, I kill the motor and enjoy the silence. I wouldn't describe the view as spectacular but it is very interesting and not at all boring. Birds of course are everywhere, the ever-present Herons are around each corner standing perfectly still trying to look invisible, and when they take flight, they look positively prehistoric. You can't sail the Columbia without seeing hundreds of Osprey and their nests, they seem to own every piling or navigation aid ever built. The squawking young ones are as big as their parents and demand to be fed non stop. We poke our bow into backwaters and coves that seem interesting, sometimes we spot deer but more often cows. It is surprising that we discover buildings out in this area that really is just a few feet above the water. Most are shacks left over from more prosperous times on the river, but some are quite substantial and have rotten old docks, a few are occupied. When we get close enough to see that someone may be living there, you suddenly feel like your trespassing and quickly turn away. The wind is very spotty, sometimes we are not moving at all. I think we have run aground and ask if anyone thinks we have stopped moving, Jaiden is sure we are still moving because he can see the current flowing around the boat. I have lined up on shore two trees and can tell we are stopped (stuck in the mud) I play the guessing game awhile longer and finally announce that someone will have to crank up the keel or we'll be stuck all day. No one moves, Linda is reading, and Jaiden is out on the bow. I climb into the cabin and turn the winch handle one full turn then watch the trees, nothing, another full turn and were free, sailing again, one with the wind, charging against the current of the mighty Columbia river. Oops, someone needs to steer soon, or I'll be cranking the keel up even more. We have been steering through these narrow waterways for several hours and thanks to occasional markers, we know exactly where we are. We have a GPS with us but using the chart seems more appropriate and enjoyable. I remember to crank the keel back down, it's reassuring knowing we can change our draft from six feet to three feet when needed.

As the sun is heading west the wind picks up and we are sailing well. We clear the last of the islands and make for the main channel, I think the port of Cathlamet is just around the next corner and sure enough soon a forest of boat masts and a breakwater come into view.

Cathlamet, WA (river mile 40)

I hate to take the sails down, we really haven't had very good sailing until the last hour and I don't want to quit. Soon we are motoring into the moorage; there are quite a few people around, a few wave, and many kayakers. Just past the gas dock, I spot a section of open dock, and smartly glide into a space right behind the sailboat that followed us out of Astoria. We exchange niceties as if were old friends, they mention they've been there for hours, what a great sail. What happened to us? I tell them we went behind all the islands, had a great time, didn't use the motor until we needed to drop sail and motor into the moorage. That reminds me, need to check the gas, and may have to fill up before we leave tomorrow. Our new friends said they were staying the next night at the Longview yacht club. I thought to myself, I didn't know Longview had a marina or moorage, how can they have a club. Cathlamet has a great little moorage, and a busy place. We ran into an old acquaintance kayak camping. They offer camping, transient moorage or year around. The moorage is very much protected from ship traffic, there's a boat ramp and fuel dock. It's just a one block walk into town where there's a couple restaurants and stores for shopping. We arrived early enough that we could tour town and get back to the boat to make dinner before dark. In the morning after a leisurely coffee and breakfast, we motored into a neat little channel behind an Island on the Washington side. There was lots of evidence of old logging operations where they handled log rafts. We smacked into something two feet below the surface and discovered a row or submerged pilings. After a short way the waterway shoaled all the way across and forced us to turn around, leaving the exploring to kayakers. Where we cleared into the main river is Puget Island, the Island is served by bridge from the Washington side and by ferryboat from the Oregon side. As we proceeded up river the ferry came across in front of us so we ducked into the slough the ferry came out of and waited for its return trip. I don't know whom was more amusing the ferry passengers looking at us or us staring back at them. So far today we have made almost no progress up river and already killed three hours. No wind again, just like yesterday so we settle into a monotonous 4 mph sleep inducing grind. On the Washington side, we go by some beautiful high cliffs. I check my maps and find the names Eagle cliffs, Bunker Hill, Oak Point. In Oregon we see mostly lowland and sure enough pretty soon we come to another likely island waterway to explore. After checking the chart I determine that there's enough depth all the way through and turn the bow towards Oregon once again. In minutes, the main river is history and we are again surrounded by nature. Somehow, 4mph seems like we are racing through, even being disrespectful using a noisy outboard motor. I cut the engine speed to just a fast idle and watch the shoreline slip by. Eventually we come to the proverbial fork in road and after checking the chart head into the left passage. It's not very long before "bump"and we are hard aground, no warning at all. The depth went from fifteen feet to three feet in half a boat length. We free ourselves and move over about twenty feet and do it again, and again, and arrrrgain. About now, I see some people on shore over on the other channel. They are waving at us to use the other channel over by them. I am reluctant to heed their waves because my up to date current chart says to go this way if we ever expect to see the Columbia River again. We free ourselves one last time and motor towards our saviors. They are standing on their private dock a little amused. They inform us that the charts have been wrong for twenty five years, and all we need to do is keep to the right from here on and we will have plenty of depth all the way back to the main river. Ah local knowledge what would we do without it.

The wind comes up again and we aren't moving slowly anymore. Without the motor running, I no longer feel disrespectful as we rip along almost in silence. Even though we are going up river we are sailing downwind, so we have the motion of the boat slicing through the water and we are moving with the wind so it is very calm with not much apparent wind on board. We are nearing Longview and the wind has picked up a lot. We are sailing on a broad reach most of the time and no longer sailing straight up the middle of the river. I'm choosing headings to keep the boat under control and comfortable, (not heeling toooo much) otherwise my crew may mutiny and never go sailing with me again. We fly by Rainer and Longview. Rainer has a nice newer guest dock we have spent the night at several times, and the town has a pizza place. I scan the shore at Longview. I still haven't seen a moorage or marina or even a river to hide in, let alone a yacht club. All I see is a big mill of some sort. It is starting to get dark and my hopes of making it to St Helens are starting to fade with the daylight. I am really torn right now. Go on or turn back to Rainer? The wind is moving us faster than ever; but it's getting dark even faster. If I push on and the wind dies, we'll be in for a long motor ride. If we keep going and hit something at this speed, it could be a major problem. In the dark I wont be able to get near shore for fear of grounding and my distance perception is almost gone along with the light. Of course, my crew doesn't know my thoughts, they just want to go in the cabin to get warm and find dinner. I push on; one factor trumps all others tonight. I'm having a great sail and don't want it to end. When I gaze ahead trying to make out anything that doesn't belong in the water, I see some industrial lights along shore.

Kalama, WA (river mile 75)
We are approaching Kalama. In about five miles I drop the sails and we motor into the moorage. The boat basin is behind a high dyke, completely protected from the wakes of passing ships.. I'm hoping Kalama has transient moorage. The office is closed so its up to us to find a place to tie up for the night. We have been here before to get fuel, but have never been beyond the entrance. I admire the many boats. Powerboats are mostly under cover, each slip like a personal garage. The sailboats all have tall masts so wont fit under cover, they are mostly at the end of docks where there are no roofs. Each parking place has it own light and power plug, close by are water spigots. The foot ramps leading to the docks have locking gates with security systems. Once you go out one of these doors and it slams behind you, getting back inside is impossible without going for a swim. We need to make sure not to get ourselves locked out. It's dark but with the marina lights we have no problem making our way safely. I spot what I've been looking for, a sign with an arrow pointing to Guest Moorage. The guest spots are at the very end, about one hundred feet of open dock is designated for guests so we pull in at the very end trying to get as close to the foot ramp as possible. There is a large amount of floating debris in the water next to the dock, apparently the local wind and currents cause all this flotsam to collect here as a welcome mat for visitors. Some of the driftwood and logs are fifteen feet long and twelve inches in diameter. I momentarily put a foot on one as I tie up the boat, big mistake, I should know better. In a heartbeat, I could be in the water and trapped under this mess. We are all hungry and food has been a major topic of discussion, so we head up the ramp and are on our way to town. The guest dock is outside the security gate so we will be able to come and go as we please.

Downtown Kalama is essentially on the other side of the interstate, so all we need do is walk over the railroad mainline via a sky bridge walkway and then under the freeway via the road tunnel and then we pop out onto the main street, walk about one block to the local hot night spot with a sign advertising pizza. It must be Saturday night because on the other side of the door marked "NO MINORS" are many loud party-goers. We are mostly by ourselves in the family area. The walk back to the boat is windy and cold, sleep comes easy tonight. Breakfast and coffee in the sunshine, the wind is light. It looks like the beginning of a pleasant day. In the daylight we can see what a mess we've parked in, the flotsam covers the entire end of the basin and the guest docks, are being swallowed, one dock is completely useless. As we pull out, I need to be careful not to damage our propeller or rudder. Once clear of the marina we can see the city park with its tall totem poles, a sight we missed in the dark. Kalama is at river mile 75, after the better part of two days on the water I'm feeling at home, but I think my crew wants to be at home. I suggest we make for St Helens and have Ice cream at a little shop a short walk from the public dock. Miraculously spirits are lifted. Motor sailing now, between light winds and the quietly purring motor, the boat is making good speed. We are tacking back and forth trying to make best use of shifty winds. The occasional ship chases us from mid channel and keeps us alert. Not at all like the backwaters around islands where the biggest commotion is a juvenile Osprey demanding to be fed.

St Helens, OR (river mile 86)
Sand Island is directly offshore of St Helens and (almost) protects the community from passing ship wakes. The city has a strong boating commitment and maintains free public docks on both the mainland and Sand Island. During the summer, there is a free shuttle boat to the island, making it easy for a boater to tie up on the island and still go into town.
The passage between the mainland and Sand Island is narrow and has a strong current making docking on either side a full attention all crew on deck maneuver. On one visit, here we discovered the hard way, an old submerged piling right next to the dock. The docks are really nice, onshore is a small city park complete with gazebo and a small grassy amphitheater. Hot and cold showers in the bathrooms (everything is free) make St Helens one of my favorite cruising destinations. We tromp up the ramp heading for the Ice cream and Gelato shop. Not in any hurry to leave, we spend some time at the small park in front of city hall where they have a nice foot path depicting Lewis and Clarks exploration. This is a very worthwhile place to visit.

Back at the waters edge I sit in the gazebo to read while my crew discovers a river otter playing under the ramp float. A city employee shows up dressed in a spiffy uniform and quickly gathers what little litter there is and just as fast is gone. Eventually we gather at the boat and cast off, the main river is just a few minutes away. At this point boaters have a major choice of routes, the main river is shortest and fastest no doubt, but more picturesque, relaxing, and off the beaten path is Multnomah Channel. Sauvies Island on the Oregon side is about 15 miles long, and following Multnomah Channel around the island to the Willamette River and back to the Columbia is about 24 miles. On this trip, I have been wanting to explore a little slough on the Washington side so we stay on the Columbia. Soon we clear Warrior rock light on Sauvie Island and continue up river keeping a sharp watch for commercial traffic, and occasionally glancing at the depth sounder. Running aground is not a major problem and our swing keel is very forgiving, but its not any more seamanlike running into things in your boat than is being a good driver and hitting parked cars with rubber bumpers.

Sauvie Island has a notorious and popular nude beach and soon we cruise by, it's hard to see well with the binoculars bouncing around from the waves. Back on the Washington side, I'm looking for the mouth of a slough that I find on my chart but have never explored. According to what I've read there is a houseboat community nestled behind a small island. I spot a small runabout coming from shore and change course to investigate; sure enough, a small opening presents itself. Sails down and motoring very slow we cautiously approach, I know from past experience that islands extend underwater for a long ways and we need to find a channel to safely enter. From hundreds of years of commercial use I expect the river to have rotten old pilings just about anywhere and everywhere. I ask Jaiden to watch closely from the bow. With one eye on the depth sounder, we bravely forge ahead. A thousand feet in we go by a boat ramp, which I assume, is where the runabout had come from. We are down to about six feet, so I crank up the keel a little and keep moving. We can see the houseboats now; it looks like about a dozen. Several have boats tied up, one is a large sailboat. and we come to a stop again. The gauge reads four feet, I am reluctant to lift the keel anymore, we are getting close to where the rudder might hit and not only do some damage but we could get stuck. I lift the keel another turn and reverse course, being sure to fully lower the keel when we clear the island and continue up the Columbia. I'm not giving up, that big sailboat had to come in during higher water and so could we, or next time we have the dinghy with us, we can anchor and dinghy the last mile. That will be another trip, another day. There's not much to see on either side but low banks or sandy beaches, Sauvies Island sports the occasional million dollar estate but Washington has some too.

As we approach the Portland and Vancouver area boat traffic increases, plus there are ships anchored. I learned years ago to stay away from parked ships when I tangled my mast with a fishing line a crewman had over the side. Today security is a big issue, so we stay clear of ships. The Willamette River flows into the Columbia at the top of Sauvies Island and creates a standing wave right at the junction. Boaters tend to cut this corner close and sometimes are rewarded with a wall of water over their bow. We continue on past more anchored ships and soon are opposite Hayden Island, Home to Jantzen Beach shopping center and where interstate five crosses the Columbia River. Our moorage basin is carved out of Hayden Island and the entrance is on the Columbia side of the island so we stay in the main channel the rest of our trip. The last challenge we must overcome is the railroad bridge, at high water the draw span must swing open to allow our mast clearance. One trip I remember waiting two hours to pass through, we arrived in the daytime and finally cleared the span after dark. This day the water is low and our current boat blessed with a short stick (size does matter) slips underneath, thirty minutes later we are safely in our slip at Hayden Bay. Previously on our way to Astoria, we had left our car in the parking lot, so it was waiting for us to drive home. This was a great trip, I plan to do it again someday bringing my inflatable kayak or dinghy to explore the areas I missed.

The US Virgin Islands

The US Virgin Islands came into America's possession in 1917 after Denmark sold the Danish West Indies to it for $25m in gold. At the time, the USA was worried that the Germans would gain control of the islands and use them as a base from which to launch attacks on America.

The status of the islands is one of an organized, unincorporated territory of the United States. This means that the residents of the US Virgin Islands are US citizens, but cannot vote in US presidential elections. Therefore, US citizens do not need a passport to visit the islands.

The US Virgin Islands are part virgin Islands archipelago and are located in the Leeward islands of the Lesser Antilles along with the British Virgin Islands. The three main islands of this American territory are called Saint Croix, Saint John and Saint Thomas. There is also a much smaller island called Water Island. All together, there are about 60 islands with a total surface area of 133.73 square miles, although most of the islands are uninhabited.

The four main islands of the US Virgin group are known to their residents by nicknames. These are 'Twin City' (St. Croix); 'Rock City' (St. Thomas); 'Love City' (St. John) and 'Small City' (Water Island) and their total population was 108,612 in the 2000 census.

Since the 1960's, the islands turned their focus from agriculture to heavy industry and tourism and the US Virgin Islands are a very popular destination for American tourists and honeymooners. It is very easy for Americans to get there because a passport is not required, the islands are only 1,730 miles east south-east of Miami, the currency is the US dollar and everybody speaks English.

The islands enjoy an arid, pleasant climate. The average temperature in the capital, Charlotte Amelie, is 33c in the summer and 30c in the winter. September to November are the wettest months and February and March are the driest. The USVI are subject to hurricanes. Hurricane Hugo in 1989 was particularly devastating, but the islands were also hit in 1998, 1999 and 2008.

Tourism is the industry that most of the islanders are engaged in and about 2,000,000 people visit every year, many of them on cruise liners. St Thomas and St Croix are the best equipped to deal with tourists offering hotels and resorts along with lovely beaches and fine restaurants. Water sports are the main activity, although tourists can also hire horses or jeeps to discover the interior of the US Virgin Islands.

Water Island - A Tropical Paradise

Swaying Palm trees. Moon lit nights. Deserted sandy beaches. Life is good on Water Island.

It might be the smallest U.S. Virgin Island at only 491 acres but you cannot beat Water Island for a "Robinson Crusoe" feeling. It is the smallest main island of the U.S. Virgin Islands and sits off the coast of St. Thomas. Inhabited by about 100 full time residents you do not have to worry about rush hour traffic. Or any crowds for that matter.

The tiny roads, many in disrepair, are very narrow. You can use a car but the preferred vehicle is a golf cart. It sure helps with the price of gas these days. When you are out and about it is unusual to see 2 or more other golf carts on the road at the same time.

Honeymoon Beach is the main attraction for both the handful of full time residents and visitors. The 1/4 mile white stretch of sand is perfect for laying in the sun, snorkeling or just floating in the crystal clear blue water. It is not uncommon to arrive at the beach and be the only ones there. Sitting on the beach and watching the fish jump and the Pelicans dive help relieve any stress you might have brought with you.

Some of the homeowners rent their homes out when they are off island to accommodate visitors. The visitors sometimes call it "The Great Escape". The beautiful flowers and wildlife, friendly Iguanas, and colorful Bananaquit birds, give you that true "I really am in Paradise" feeling. It is common for first time visitors to return year after year.

Although the only commercial establishments on Water Island are a lunch wagon that serves lunch at Honeymoon Beach every day and dinner on Saturday nights, a small beach bar with tropical concoctions and a small restaurant that is open occasionally, no one seems to mind. All supplies must be brought over from nearby St. Thomas.

You can get to the island by either private boat or the regularly scheduled small ferry. If you have to bring a vehicle to the island or building supplies there is a barge service available.

If you are looking for Real Estate on Water Island the pickings are slim but there are always several houses and lots of land for sale. When a property goes on the market it is usually snatched up fairly quickly.

Maintenance and clean-ups of Honeymoon Beach are performed by members of the Water Island Civic Association (WICA) and volunteer residents. Some roadside cutting and a little road repair is performed by the Virgin Islands' government.

Water Island was used by the U.S. Government in the 1940s when they partially constructed an underground fort, Fort Segarra, as part of the U.S. defenses during WWII. The site sits abandoned today but many visitors climb the steps of the lookout post to enjoy the panoramic view of the Caribbean Sea and Atlantic Ocean.

Administrative control of Water Island was turned over from the federal government to the territorial government on December 12, 1996, making Water Island the "Last Virgin". In following years the Department of Interior started transferring land, for a price of course, to the long-time residential leaseholders.