water island
Minggu, 07 September 2014
Tarpon Lodge in Pineland, Florida - Looking Back in Time on Pine Island
Pine Island lies just west of Cape Coral. In addition to the excellent fishing, talented artists, and ancient archaeological sites...there are also several utterly unique "Old Florida" experiences not to be missed. Chief among these is the Tarpon Lodge Sportsman Inn, Restaurant, and Bar located on the northwest coast of Pine Island in Pineland.
From Cape Coral, the ride to Pineland is scenic and relaxing. A straight shot down Pine Island Road takes me past thick native vegetation. Fishermen and artists bump shoulders with photographers and eco-tourists amidst the hallucinogenic colors of Matlacha. Then it's a quick and quiet jaunt through the stark alien landscape of the Little Pine Island wetland restoration area.
From the four-way stop sign at the center of Pine Island, I turn right onto Stringfellow road. Grand entrances to half-built subdivisions encroach on the scenic space, threatening the future of long enduring roadside vegetable vendors and the lush, desolate labyrinths of palm tree nurseries. The onward push for bigger, better, faster, more is visible, even here.
A fish-emblazoned sign at the corner of a side street points the way to the Tarpon Lodge. Magnificent shell mounds raise the ground on the right side of the road. Sparkling Pine Island Sound soon comes into view on the left. A short distance ahead stands the stately Tarpon Lodge Sportsman Inn and Restaurant. It's right across the road from the Calusa Heritage Trail and practically next-door to the home of New York Times best-selling author, Randy Wayne White.
The main building was originally built in 1926 by the Wilson family. Later on it was owned and operated by I.B. and Mary Hunt Jones as the Pine-Aire Lodge. In 1986, an additional dormitory building was added to the former Pine-Aire Lodge property. For the next ten years the property was known as The Cloisters, a drug and alcohol rehabilitation center. It wasn't until 2000 when Robert and Phyllis Wells (who also own the restaurant at Cabbage Key) purchased the complex. They renovated the main building and dormitory into a restaurant and hotel...the present day Tarpon Lodge. It opened for business in June of 2001. When Hurricane Charley made landfall on Pine Island on August 13, 2004, it severely damaged the roof of the main structure, flooding the main dining room. Most of the windows were shattered and all of the docks were destroyed. After the storm, work ensued, and the property was restored again. The restaurant reopened on December 15, 2004. The Inn reopened during the New Year's holiday and immediately hosted a family gathering for former President Jimmy Carter and his family.
Royal palms and banana tree leaves shade the front entrance. Red flowers and green leaves come alive in the soft breeze as I walk by them on my way to check in to an overnight room. A quick tour and gracious hospitality are immediately offered by the kind woman behind the desk. After my Tarpon Lodge orientation, it's out to the car to gather the wife and belongings...we're officially on Island Time.
Pineland is as laid back as it gets. This isn't glitzy-neon Florida. This isn't sweaty South Beach, or posh Worth Ave, or tacky Panama City, or plastic Orlando. Even Sanibel and Captiva look overpopulated and hectic when compared against Pineland. People who visit the Tarpon Lodge don't end up here on accident...they usually come here looking for one of a few things: fishing, history, nature, romance or solitude. If they're lucky, they'll get a mixture of them all.
There are several types of rooms available at the Tarpon Lodge, but space is limited...especially during the tourist and tarpon seasons. The small number of rooms available adds to the allure of the lodge, and allows the staff to accomplish their goal of hands-on, personal service for each guest they host.
The 1926 historic house has nine rooms. Even though this building has been renovated several times, you'd never know it. A lot of antique materials still exist. Most rooms even still have the original hardwood floors. Some of the rooms in the main building have water-views. All of them have convenient access to the restaurant and lounge. Another major selling point is that these rooms offer the distinctive opportunity to become a part of Pine Island history by staying overnight in one of the oldest buildings on the Island.
There is one cottage and a restored 1926 boathouse. Both have kitchenettes, porches, and fantastic water views. These options are perfect for those planning extended stays.
Our room is in the Island House, a stilt building behind the main building. There are twelve rooms in this building. Six of them have a water-view. All of the water-view rooms in the Island House have small balconies facing west, allowing a one-of-a-kind vantage point to mind-blowing, Pine Island Sound sunsets. We're lucky enough to have snagged one of the water-view rooms even though our visit is halfway through tarpon season.
The room is comprised of a comfortable bed, a lamp, an armoire with a small television and a private bathroom. The most important feature is the balcony overlooking the pool, the tropically-manicured grounds and Pine Island Sound. There's no phone in the room. There's no wireless internet access, either. Both of those can be had in the main building...but I've come here to disconnect from the electronic ties that bind me everywhere else.
Once every thing's lugged up from the car and we're settled, it's out to the balcony with a freshly popped bottle of red wine and two glasses. A couple wicker chairs and a table await us, along with all the glory of unspoiled Southwest Florida.
A steady, cooling breeze caresses our skin and flirts with our hair. Alternating patterns of bright sunlight and cloud shadows intermingle on the well-kept lawn stretching towards the water. A few errant seagrape leaves blow across the grass. Love bugs mate mid-air. A green anole extends its brightly colored dewlap and bobs up and down. Our entire view is of an unhurried and idyllic paradise...swaying palms, huge watercolor skies, and the wide expanse of Pine Island Sound.
The horizon is occupied by steadfast and uncelebrated islands and keys. Wood Key. Black Key. Part Island. Inaccessible by foot or car, these unspoken-about places play at the imagination. Who owns them? Does anyone live on them? Minds wander to the ancient Calusa heritage of this area, filling in these blank islands with colorful and storied pasts. Shell mounds. Unfound Indian art. Sacred burial grounds. Untold secrets.
Birds break the surface of of the water, diving beneath to hunt for fish. Fish break the surface of the air, jumping up to grasp at bugs. Small boats ride the borderlands, skimming across the rumpled surface of Pine Island Sound, sometimes docking at the Tarpon Lodge, sometimes heading for the Pineland Marina conveniently located nearby.
An excited couple, in their early forties, emerge onto a balcony a few rooms away. They're on vacation, and they've just checked in at the Tarpon Lodge. Within minutes they're down at the pool in bathing suits, all huge smiles. This is the place they've been looking forward to visiting, marking big black X's each day on their calendar, an excruciating countdown. Now they're finally here and they immerse themselves into the experience of Southwest Florida as quickly as they immerse themselves into the outdoor pool. That's all it takes. A commitment to relax.
I love watching them gaze in wide-eyed wonder at the newness around them. With the curiosity of babies, they've emerged from the womb of their normal lives into the wonder of a place so utterly different. Their heads rotate in wide arcs, taking the scenery in. When you find yourself gazing skyward in appreciation you'll know you've begun to unwind. Wild eyes absorb the tropical moments, romanticizing, writing to memory. Between playful splashes in the pool they reconnect in ways only a change of scenery can allow.
The lure of the landscape is strong. Before long we're out of our chairs and exploring the Tarpon Lodge grounds by foot. We walk beneath flowers and foliage, low-hanging leaves and blossoms tickle our exposed skin. The rejuvenative scent of salt water is pervasive, massaging us with aromatherapy. The material of a shaded hammock hungrily grips at the curves of our bodies as we gently sway back and forth. Then it's off for a tryst with the virgin-white gazebo. We escape the sun by running beneath long-fronded coconut palms. We gaze up at their clusters of exotic fruit and run our hands along the ridged terrain of their stone hard trunks. Out on the dock, it's tongues of water lapping at wood, birds singing suggestive mating songs, and fish frantically splashing...all beneath the tattered linen of Egyptian cotton clouds. In less than a half hour we've gotten intimate with nature.
In the Tarpon Lodge dining room and lounge it's come as you are or as you want to be. This is a Sportsman Inn on Pine Island. It can be a colorful melting-pot of an affair at times. It's a place where millionaire boat enthusiasts bump shoulders with young couples looking for romance. Vegan eco-activists dine in the same room as crusty fishermen and archeology professors. Differing styles of dress and speech are the backdrop of the social scene at the Tarpon Lodge. Some of the guests want to engage in polite conversation, others want to be left alone with their books and thoughts.
The service staff adds its own tones to the lively and vibrant mix, tones of the varied places they've ventured from on their journey to end up here, tones of the high level of service the management expects them to provide. For a place off the beaten path, and on an island known for the carefree nature of its service employees, General Manager Rob Wells III has amassed a staff he can truly be proud of. In all interactions our needs were anticipated and catered to, most often with a mind-boggling accuracy.
The lounge at the Tarpon Lodge is reminiscent of an old-fashioned New England style pub, something from Revolutionary War days. Magnificent dark wood floors run past a cavernous bar towards a primitive brick fireplace. Tasteful tall vases filled with beach sand and lightning whelk shells serve as candle-holders for large white candles which glimmer dimly every evening. Trophy fish are mounted on the wall, along with the hideous saw of a small-tooth sawfish (now a protected endangered species). Simple photographs of ancient fishing conquests abound. Sack-back Windsor chairs line several tables, and personalities from all across Pine Island come to indulge in the libations and excellent food.
Three unshaven men, fresh from a day on the water, crowd the small bar trading emphatic fish stories. A married couple, from nearby Bokeelia, dine from the lounge menu. From across the room they engage my wife in conversation...life on the island, trips to Hong Kong and Dubai, the presidential race. Between the twists and turns of an animated discussion, the wife and I share a Caribbean Shrimp, Mushroom and Spinach Dip appetizer. Topped with Monterey Jack cheese and served with seasoned croutons, the subtle curry flavor of the dip was a pleasant surprise.
The amiable hostess introduces herself and explains how the Chef at the Tarpon Lodge, Jethro Joseph, hails from Grand Cayman. He loves to blend fresh Southwest Florida ingredients with Caribbean spices when creating his unique menu items. The end result is some of the region's most innovative food. Traditional classics given a South Florida update share menu space with fresh catch delicacies, while exotic flavors of the Cayman Islands reveal themselves in surprising and unexpected places.
The Tarpon Lodge Restaurant is consistently rated at four stars by visiting food critics. Live music, of the easy listening variety, is scheduled a couple times a week. There is an exquisitely appointed indoor dining room, but the tables you want here are out on the screened dining patio overlooking the postcard-perfect sunset on Pine Island Sound.
The hostess seats us at a corner table on the patio with an unobstructed water view. The live musical guests this evening are the David Sarchet Trio. Their blending of classic and modern jazz stylings mix with the fresh Florida air and provide the perfect atmospheric backdrop for a magical dining experience.
Within moments, our professional server provides proper wine service on the bottle we chose from the limited and affordable wine list. Glasses full of Steele Pinot Noir are raised for a toast in the dusky light. Crystal clinks, and our leisurely-paced meal begins.
Salads, bigger than life, appear before us. My wife goes with a Green Leaf Spinach Salad made with baby spinach leaves topped with roasted red pepper and mushrooms, finished with a warmed sweet bacon vinaigrette. The fluctuation of temperatures plays with our senses. Crisp cool spinach collides with the warm bacon dressing...absolutely stunning.
Mine is a Hearts of Palm Asian Salad. Tangy hearts of palm and sweet snowpeas tossed with mixed field greens and crispy fried wonton strips, which add an extra crunchy texture to the salad. All of it is lightly smothered in an Asian vinaigrette with sesame and ginger tones. Magnificent.
My wife's Pine Island Sound Crab Cakes definitely live up to the legendary word-of-mouth status they've earned over the past couple years. Jumbo lump crab meat combined with Chef Jethro Joseph's inimitable blend of seasonings, formed into two gargantuan crab cakes and sauteed until done. They are wisely paired with a garlic aioli which complements the flavors of the crab cakes nicely. This is Southwest Florida food done right.
My choice is a sought-after fresh catch special that's hard to track down, but oh-so-worth-it when it's found...Sauteed Local Tripletail. I was so delighted to hear our server verbal the dish at the beginning of our meal. Tripletail is something of a closely-held fisherman's secret here in South Florida...delicate, flaky, pearly flesh with a mild, slightly-meaty flavor completely unique unto itself. The Tarpon Lodge is one of the few local restaurants which offers this fish regularly. If you ever see it offered - get it, you will not be disappointed.
Chef Joseph did it right, again, with the tripletail...just a gentle saute with salt and pepper. That's all it asks for. This is a fish which doesn't need to hide beneath sauces. It's enjoyed best out in the open, on it's own merit, minimalist, and pure....and enjoy it I did!
Somewhere along the line the sun dips below the horizon and a pastel explosion splatters across the sky. Long shadows fall beneath the palm trees and the playful jazz music wanders out into the darkness of nighttime air on the coastline. One by one, the other diners leave the screened patio until we're the last two people there, our only company a few sips of red wine and what remains of a decadent chocolate dessert. Island-induced bliss.
Back at the room, my wife takes a long, hot shower. I decide to wait for her on the balcony. Nighttime is in full bloom and a wall of spotlights shine up from the ground illuminating the undersides of several palm trees and the gazebo. The closed swimming pool still glows against the darkness. Is there anything more inviting than the computer-blue glow of a swimming pool at night?
Within seconds I'm stripped to my boxer shorts and jogging down the Island House hallway. I descend the set of stairs and surreptitiously slip inside the gate surrounding the pool. I look nervously around, but no one's watching. I break the hotel rules by sliding into the refreshing neon water of a pool closed for the night.
My surroundings are as vivid as a pleasant and otherworldly dream. Majestic, dark palm trees show in silhouettes against the night-tide sky. The tropical air has cooled drastically. A soft chlorine scent emanates from the water, then disappears each time the light breeze of pristine air picks up again. Fresh air. Pine-Aire.
Off in the distance, purple and white electricity dances in the form of silent heat lightning. Twinkling, white Christmas lights ride the perimeter of the historic inn, strung along the full length of the eaves. The blue-tinted haze of half-watched TV screens smolders from the windows of overnight rooms, where adventure-weary travelers drift off toward dreams.
The pool light reflects off the gentle waves I'm creating and flashes across my skin in streaks and blurs. The only sound is the desert-island rustle of palm fronds in the invisible breeze and the electric whir of an improperly balanced ceiling fan on the porch of the Island House.
I ease onto my back and let the water support me. Weightless, I float on the surface, eyes aimed skyward. The stars above glow with a ferocity and brightness I've never witnessed before, huge burning spheres, floating in the sky as I float in this pool.
I look at the heavens and look back in time, witnessing antique light finishing its impossibly long journey towards Earth. The starlight I see tonight began its trek long before the Tarpon Lodge existed. Before the Cloisters. Before the Pine-Aire Lodge. Before the Wilson family cleared this land or built this house. The starlight I see tonight was formed when Calusa Indians ruled this piece of land, when the only other light was thrown forth by campfires, and the stars were looked to for guidance and wonder.
Australia's Fraser Island - Escape Forever
For all its conveniences, modern living leaves a lot to be desired. We spend our days enduring the ever-increasing pressures of work, the city's oppressive unfriendliness, the daily commuter grind and the aggressive reality of impatient road-ragers.
Is something missing?
Unfortunately, work is a reality for most of us. So too is city and suburban living, dreary weather, pollution, traffic... But it doesn't have to be all there is to life. Try something that puts you in touch with who you really are. Try something elemental. Try something that soothes your soul.
Try Fraser Island.
Fraser Island isn't just an island paradise. It's a unique and luxurious combination of Australia's rich natural heritage, its earthy roots, its wholesome majesty, and its refreshingly simple essentials. It's a chance to touch the fine sands, to drift in the temperate water, to bask in the sun that seems all yours... It's your chance to partake of a life that most Australians have forgotten.
Spend a week on and in turquoise waters, a week without shoes with the sand between your toes, a week fishing and perhaps living off your catch. Your perspective can't help but change.
It's not a mere fleeting appreciation. It's something you take with you.
Fraser can help remind you that you're not your job. How important are the forms and the filing, the meetings and memorandums? You can learn a lot about yourself when you take away all the things that don't matter.
And really... is there any better way to experience this epiphany than in paradise?
Fraser Island certainly is a paradise, no matter which way you look at it. At the southern end of the Great Barrier Reef, and a short boat ride from Hervey Bay in South-East Queensland, Fraser is 124 km from tip to toe and 16 km across the middle. At 163,000 hectares, it's the world's biggest sand island.
Of course, that doesn't mean it's all just sand. Not by a long shot! The whole island is laced with crystal clear fresh water streams, and deep midnight blue fresh water lakes. In fact, with over 40 fresh water lakes - it's home to half of the world's known 'perched' lakes. It also boasts a dazzling diversity of plants and animals (including Australia's purest strain of dingo), and an amazing variety of spectacular landscapes, from 120 km of non-stop tropical beach to dense and towering rainforest, weathered headland to ochre gorge, inspiring cliffs to wandering dunes, eerie mangroves to wind-blown salt pans.
What's more, you have your choice of accommodation, so you can choose your own level of 'communion with nature'. From 4½ star luxury resorts to rental retreats to motels and units, right through to the good 'ole campsite. Whether you're a sucker for a bit of pampering, or you're perfectly at home with a tent and a campfire on the beach, Fraser is a great provider.
And great accommodation is just the start... The island boasts average temperatures of 29°c in summer and 22°c in winter, so it's no surprise that outdoor activities feature prominently on the agenda. Adrenalin addicts and dedicated sunbathers alike will appreciate the vast range available. From sunrise to sunset (and beyond), there's always something for everyone. The only problem is choosing! Fishing, 4-wheel-driving, eating, sailing, bird-watching, bush-walking, swimming, eating, whale & dolphin-watching, shipwreck exploration, eating, beauty therapy, massage, lazing in the sun, eating, beach volleyball, tennis, cricket, eating, canoeing, sailboarding, snorkelling, eating... And needless to say, a few quiet drinks might make their way onto the agenda as well...
With so much to offer, it's no surprise that the Fraser Island was originally known as K'gari - or 'Paradise' - by local Aboriginal peoples.
Fraser Island certainly is "paradise for everyone"!
Four Wheel Driving
Being a sand island, the only mode of land transport is 4WD. Of course, for many visitors, that's the main attraction. 4WD enthusiasts from all around the world visit Fraser Island to pit themselves and their vehicles against the rugged terrain found all over the island. From the hard-packed seashore to the shifting dune to the forests of the interior, Fraser Island is the ideal 4WD location.
Don't be scared though - it's not all about extreme driving for experts! Whether you're an novice, or you just prefer a more leisured pace of life, you'll find a much more sedate satisfaction in one of the many organised 4WD tours offered around the island. Or if you just want to get out on your own, you can hire a 4WD for a day, and indulge in a bit of quiet exploring.
No matter which option you choose, though, there are a few 'ground rules' you should observe. Remember the dangers of driving on the beach. The further you adventure from the shoreline, the softer the sand. The softer the sand, the more likely you are to get into trouble. Generally speaking, keep your speed down, and remember you're in a World Heritage listed environment... so be careful.
Fishing
No island holiday would be complete without a lazy day or two spent fishing. Beach fishing is the big drawcard for Fraser Island. And with 150 km of ocean beach to choose from, why wouldn't it be? Middle Rocks, Sandy Cape, Waddy Point, and Seventy Five Mile Beach are just a few of the choice locations available for you to finally get the better of 'the one that got away'.
The famed 'tailor run' occurs on the eastern (ocean) side of the island between July and October each year. In the angling world, this time - known as 'tailor season' - is a much anticipated event, with huge schools of big fish working the beaches. But if you can't make it between late winter and early spring, rest assured, tailor season is just one date to mark in your calendar. The western side of Fraser has been known to reward the odd angler with a fine bag of bream, whiting and flathead.
Long Island, Bahamas: This True Quiet Island Getaway Must Be One Of The Best Romantic Islands!
While searching online for a true quiet island getaway, I happened across Long Island, Bahamas, a small island eighty miles long and only three miles wide, aptly named "Long Island," one of the southern most out islands in the Bahamas.
As I began to read about the lack of tourism, the beautiful stretched out and secluded beaches on both the Atlantic and the Caribbean sides of the island, I found myself already beginning to relax and envisioned myself strolling down an incredibly beautiful beach for hours without a care in the world...
Continuing my education, I began to soak up the laid back way of life. I felt a major urge to get myself to this island and the sooner, the better.
Like a dream come true, as I begin to write this, I am sitting on the porch of a wonderful, romantic cottage, The Whistling Duck, located south of Clarence Town.
Our small 20 seats or so plane landed at Deadman's Cay Airport (Cay is pronounced "key" in the Bahamas) at the southern end of the island. We were greeted by Nancy, the caretaker for the owners or our private cottage, who drove us to The Whistling Duck.
She was friendly, had a hearty Bahamian laugh, and offered to help us with anything (including a rental car which we took advantage of our second day). She said she was a phone call away if we had any questions.
On our flight from Nassau to Deadman's Cay, we found ourselves already wondering what might be the best thing about what we would end up calling "The Other Long Island"...
It certainly could be the incredible water. There are the most beautiful hues of Caribbean and Atlantic blues from clear to light blue to aqua to turquoise to deep bluish-purple to varying oceanic shades of green, I have ever seen.
Then again it might be the amazingly secluded beaches with soft sands, good shell hunting and the constant soothing rhythm of crashing waves. Wait, it's probably that Long Island has the most down to earth, friendly people on the planet.
If you have a craving for quiet adventure, there are many small roads angling off the single north and south main road, Queen's Highway. Every one of the small, mainly dirt or sand "car paths" must lead to a new head shaking "Wow!" view and experience.
No, actually it's got to be the water sports from snorkeling, diving, sailing, boating, fishing, to kayaking.
In hindsight, the best thing about The Other Long Island may be one of the sights or activities that we didn't get to, such as caving or who knows what!
The most appealing aspect could be a combination of any of the above, or maybe it's simply completely relaxing, being away from all the stress of work and city life.
This island takes your imagination back in time to what the Bahamas used to be like. Amenities are few. The food is great. Supplies are limited but available if you find out where and when to go. Bahamian and U.S. dollars are interchangeable. The people are warm, always seem to have a welcoming smile planted on their friendly faces and more than hospitable and helpful.
The Whistling Duck cottage was everything it had looked to be on the website and more. Our fowl feather namesake cottage had a perfect covered front porch with a double wicker swing, gas barbecue grill and two teak and canvas chairs to sit and soak up the views of the Atlantic and the harbor at Clarence Town.
We quickly discovered this was the perfect spot to sip morning coffee or tea, read to our hearts content, or simply relax.
There is another deck off the bedroom, complete with two chaise lounges and an outdoor shower, the one I used all week. Ceiling fans in the living room, kitchen area and the bedroom help keep the interior comfortable with constant man-made breezes.
There is a gazebo at the water's edge where we hung out absorbing the water's sights and sounds and spent time reading throughout the week. Nice bath and beach towels are included. A kayak is available for a small deposit. Laundry facilities are located at the Flying Fish Marina if needed. For an additional fee you can have Nancy clean the cottage each day.
Two bikes were included with the cottage and provided exercise and transportation for our first days' adventure on the island to check out Clarence Town.
We filled our backpack with supplies from one of the two small stores and befriended a small boy, Horace, at the True Value food and sundry store. Horace seemed truly intrigued by my silver and blue Asics running shoes, shown by the awe in his big eyes when he reached down to touch them.
We quickly discovered that a car was a must if we really wanted to explore the island. Riding eighty miles on bikes one way to get to the northern tip of our quiet island getaway was simply too much.
By the way, be sure to take enough cash as some of the rental car operators do not accept credit cards. (If you think gas is expensive in the U.S., check out the $6.10 per gallon in the Bahamas, and this is in 2008!).
The tourist map of Long Island is like a cartoon and makes it look like all the roads on the island are paved. If you have an adventuresome spirit, don't be surprised when taking one of the many off-shooting roads from Queen's Highway to suddenly find yourself on a small, rocky, car-width path that looks like it is going nowhere.
Rest assured that slow going and patience will pay off with breathtaking rewards as the startling, beautiful ocean views provide stimulating visual overload, especially on the Caribbean side of the island.
Throughout our first week of July visit, there was a constant breeze. The various bird species were gaily singing each morning. We fairly quickly found out why the cottage was named The Whistling Duck! There is indeed such a flying feather friend on the island!
The hummingbirds were busy flitting from flower to flower during the day. My better half unknowingly imitated a flower one afternoon while wearing a bright yellow top and had to gently wave to get a hummingbird to leave her alone.
The humidity was very high and sweatily noticeable. The combination of being in the shade and the breeze was very nice and the best place to be unless we were in the water. Working out on the front deck each morning got me drenched within minutes. The ocean view definitely kept me inspired!
On day two, Nancy dropped off the rental car we had arranged the day before and we set out on our first driving adventure. Using the tourist map, we headed south to Hard Bargain, one of some thirty plus townships up and down the island.
We entertained ourselves by pretending to figure out how Hard Bargain got its name and came up with numerous possibilities. Turning east on a small gravel road, we headed toward the Caribbean side of the island and ended up by the abandoned salt fields of the Diamond Crystal Salt Company.
In the days before refrigeration, salt was used to preserve meats and fish for ships setting out to sea and had been a huge business. We thought we were lost when we rounded a curve in the road and simultaneously gasped at the incredible, stunning spectrum of light blue Caribbean waters. This may have been the most beautiful vision of ocean water either one of us has ever seen!
Following the sand and gravel road, we returned to Queen's Highway (a fairly small, two lane blacktop road which runs almost the entire north-south length of the island) and headed north. For the most part, the drive is not very exciting. There are occasional ocean views on one side or the other. Taking almost any side road will likely lead to beautiful ocean views, a deserted beach, and a new adventure.
Wanting to check out the Stella Maris Resort, built in the 1960's, we found ourselves standing on a hill in the middle of the resort where we could see the deep almost purple-blue waters of the Atlantic looking one way and the stellar, azure blue rainbow waters of the Caribbean by simply turning our heads 180 degrees, which was quite astonishing.
The Stella Maris Resort is large and is the only place on the island with tennis courts. We noticed several for sale signs in the front of a few of the homes located within the resort, and found ourselves wishfully wondering... Sigh.
Lunching at the resort overlooking the beach, we found the food and service were okay but could use some quality improvement. We did not get to see what are apparently some of the best plantation ruins on the island, which are located on the resort property.
We had hoped to make it all the way to the northern tip of the island to see one of the other two resorts, Cape Santa Maria and the Christopher Columbus Monument, but decided we were running out of time. We will make sure we see both on our next visit.
Wonderfully, the remainder of the week we had no plans whatsoever and each morning casually decided what we would do for the next few hours. No stress, no phones, no technology, no traffic, no rushing around. Simply the constant caressing breezes and soothing sounds of the Atlantic waves to relax us, stimulate our senses and soothe our souls.
We enjoyed taking long walks on Lochabar Beach. We quickly realized that getting to the beach from the gazebo was much easier at low tide, which had to be lower than high tide by at least three to four feet.
We found numerous small conch shells and two large conchs with the most beautiful deep pink on the inside, sand dollars, and lots of smaller shells throughout the week.
Walking to the right for about thirty minutes on Lochabar Beach, we rounded the bend and encountered a huge blue hole. Blue holes immediately plummet from the surrounding shallow sandy waters to fairly extreme depths.
One of our coolest adventures was to see the deepest blue hole in the world. Dean's Blue Hole is located at Long Island and goes to a depth of around 660 feet! We were told that the second largest known underwater cavern in the world is at the bottom of Dean's Blue Hole.
We had a wonderful picnic here one afternoon, just the two of us. I was rather nervous contemplating snorkeling out into Dean's Blue Hole and I decided it must have been the extreme unknown of what lies in the depths below. Locals dive from the low cliffs on the backside of the hole and swim in its waters all the time.
My better and much prettier half, had no issues swimming out into the middle of Dean's Blue Hole... and loves giving me trouble about being a chicken to this day!
The third morning, I called Nancy to find out where to get fresh fish, thinking there had to be plenty in the Bahamas. She mentioned Nick the fisherman and gave us his number. I left a message and he called us back a few hours later.
Nick the fisherman said he had grouper and red snapper he had caught the day before. It turned out Nick, his wife and six children lived at the end of our sandy, gravel road. It took five minutes to walk up the hill to his house where we were met by a welcoming version of man's best friend, who ran up to us wagging his tail excitedly and definitely got our petting attention.
There was a fair amount of miscellaneous underwater sonar equipment and three fishing boats in the yard. It was evident this family spent a lot of time by, in, on or under the water.
Nick greeted us warmly and invited us in.
There were attention-grabbing shark jaws mounted on the wall in order from small and harmless looking, to, "no way you want to encounter one of these in the water," holy sh_ _! large jawed, teeth filled specimens.
Nick shared a little about how they ended up on Long Island. We learned he was from Nassau. Nick and his wife Fiona have four boys and two girls.
Twenty-three years ago he came up with the idea to create a native Bahamian calendar, which the entire family now contributes to. It is sold throughout the Bahamas. The artwork is original and each month has native Bahamian tidbits including history and recipes for such things as soup and conch dishes.
We bought two copies at one of the local stores to bring back home with us. We plan to take advantage of some of the local recipes and use them for our next gourmet club dinner in the mode of a Bahamian theme dinner!
Nick started talking about a few of the ship-wrecks he had explored and showed us several items of interest such as one hundred year old antique gin bottles, four hundred year old olive jars, and more.
One of the wrecks he mentioned was a ship called the Southhampton, which prompted me to share that my godson was attending Southhampton University in southern England to get his masters in Marine Archaeology.
Five days later on our way to the airport to leave the island I noticed Nick's royal blue pick-up truck coming toward us. His wife was leaning out the window waving her arms and trying to flag us down.
We pulled over and Nick ran up to our car. He said "I have something for your god-son," and pulled out a small white pipe. He explained he had recovered the pipe from a ship that had purportedly been set ablaze by Blackbeard the Pirate. Nick thought my godson, Tim, would like it. No doubt, Tim will love it!
I have never before experienced this level of friendliness, excitement, exuberance and generosity on a vacation. What an island! Maybe we should keep it a secret. No way, this is a story to share as an example for how the world used to be, in some cases still is, and definitely the way it should be!
The Outer Edge Grill, located by the Flying Fish Marina in Clarence Town, ended up being one of our favorite spots. It is right on the water and is a wonderful place to experience a simple, local flavor for lunch or dinner or to have a drink and dreamily watch the boats, water birds and other creatures.
We had lunch at The Outer Edge Grill several times, enjoying each visit immensely. After one bite we concluded their conch fritters were most likely going to be the best on the island. Cracked conch and grilled grouper made for savory meals.
Everyone at The Outer Edge was very friendly. We enjoyed talking with Hermie and particularly with Stanlika. After my mentioning all the fried food on the island, Stan suggested to special order anywhere to have our food grilled, which was a great tidbit for the rest of our trip.
It was fun checking out the boats coming in and out of the small marina during the week. There were a few fishing boats and some rather large, luxurious vessels as well. Some of the names were Les Belles, Carcharia, Island Hope, Liquid Gold, Island Dream, and Endless Adventure. Home ports included Miami, Coral Gables, and Nassau among others.
Rowdy Boys at the Winter Haven Resort in Clarence Town is by the water on the other side of the small peninsula by the marina. The food was very good and the family that owned it was extremely friendly.
We met the grandmother Chloe and her husband, a granddaughter Justine who waited on us and one of the sons. One afternoon we offered to buy Chloe a drink. She chose a concoction called SkyJuice, consisting of gin and very sweet coconut milk. She soon began sharing some of her family history. She also shared that her son Ben had taken the owners of the yacht Les Belles (see above paragraph) deep-sea fishing. Ben had learned they had no plans and were simply planning their laid back adventure day by day. What a wonderful way to travel the sea!
Chloe and her husband had owned and operated a pineapple and banana farm, which had been destroyed by a hurricane a few years ago. She had tears in her eyes as she shared some of the hardships her family had experienced. Their three boys had argued somewhat loudly through their younger years and had been given the nickname of the 'Rowdy Boys."
Rowdy Boys Construction now builds throughout the Bahamas and had finished The Winter Haven Resort and Rowdy Boys Bar and Restaurant just over a year ago for their parents and family to run. We look forward to visiting Rowdy Boys and this family again.
The Forest Restaurant is three miles south of The Whistling Duck. We had a wonderful dinner of cracked lobster, cracked conch, peas and rice and mashed potatoes here one night. The proprietors, Dudley and Patty, were great.
One afternoon we called in to special order grilled grouper and chicken sandwiches, which were awesome by the way. When we stopped by to pick up our picnic lunch, Dudley waited on us. I shared that my stomach had been off all morning. He insisted on making me a club soda and blackberry brandy to fix me up. They were out of club soda, so he used ginger ale. I told Dudley I did not want any alcohol to no avail as he insisted I drink it straight down. I did so reluctantly and was pleasantly surprised at the taste. Thirty minutes later my stomach felt fine. Nothing like a good ol' local Bahamian medicinal beverage to fix you right up!
We stopped in a few of the small roadside stores to buy water and a handful of food items during the week. Everywhere we went the people were genuinely friendly. We had nothing but extraordinarily wonderful "encounters" with Long Island folk the entire week.
The Oasis Bakery outside of Clarence Town has wonderful home-baked breads, including whole wheat and multi-grain, cookies and decadent local desserts. You can order sandwiches for takeaway (the island term for "to go") or eat outside at the bakery. We observed it was common for small establishments to have a small bar onsite, and the Oasis was no exception.
Interesting Places in US Virgin Islands
The United States Virgin Islands (or Virgin Islands in the United States), an area of island in located in the Caribbean, is home to locals who are mostly of African descent. It has three primary islands--Saint Croix (Twin Town), Saint John (Adore Town), and Saint Thomas (Rock City) and one particular little island--Water Island (Modest Town).
It however has smaller islands around it.
It really is in situated east of Puerto Rico and west of the British Virgin Islands. English is the recognized language whilst Spanish and French creole are likewise spoken. Like the majority of Caribbean countries, it is a good spot for summer vacations and activities.
Check out these places and activities that may liven up your Caribbean holiday:
See-Thru Kayak Adventures
In Altoona Lagoon (St. Croix), you may wish to ride a plain kayak so you can enjoy the marine life just below you. If you've never kayaked before, don't worry instructions are given out by the owners.
H2o Sports
Ever tried " angling"? Prepare for a day of deep-sea fishing ( when you are tired of lounging under the sun)! You may likewise want to go sailing and discover the different islands. Boats are rented out for people who need to (and can actually) sail by themselves. Snorkeling and scuba diving are, obviously, are staples.
Festivals and Carnivals
Whatever month you may possibly drop by the US Virgin Islands, there will invariably be an activity that will be awaiting you:
February: St. Croix Agriculture & Food Fair
March: Annual Antique Flea Market at St. Croix
April and May: Carnival Events
June: St. John's Festival
July: The Governor's Cup Boy Scouts Gold Tournament
October: Hispanic Heritage Fiesta
November: Horse Racing Doc James Racetracks
December: Funny Cars Invitations & Miss St. Croix Beauty pageant.
If it all sounds foreign to you, why not make it sound so familiar by trying it all out? Now's the time to give it a trial and feel the colors on the US Virgin Islands' lifestyle!
St Croix - The US Virgin Islands
S
aint Croix is the largest of the US Virgin Islands, which lie 1730 miles east south east of Miami and 93 miles west of Puerto Rico. This section of the Virgin Islands has belonged to the United States since 1917 when they were purchased from the Danish government for $25m in gold to safeguard American coasts from German U-boat attack.
At the time, it was feared that Germany would subjugate the islands and build submarine pens there in order to harass American supply shipping, which was essential to the allies in Europe during the First World War.
The US Virgin islands is a cluster of about 60 chiefly uninhabited islands, the four biggest of which are called St. Croix, St. Thomas, St. John and Water Island. (By the way, 'Saint' is pronounced in the English manner). The Islands' inhabitants, however, have other names for these four which are Twin City, Rock City, Love City and Small City respectively.
Christopher Columbus landed there on November 14th, 1493, but there is evidence of human habitation on the island going back to 5000 BC. In fact, the Arawaks and the Caribs made up the islands' populace, before the Europeans arrived.
Possession of St Croix and the other Virgin Islands changed a lot over the following centuries, but it became famous to many people as Santa Cruz, which is its Spanish name. As Santa Cruz, St Croix featured highly in 17th and 18th century stories of pirates and buccaneers on the Spanish Main.
In fact, after Spain initially took control of the island, it changed hands seven times; having been Spanish, British, French, Maltese, Dutch, Danish and now American. The residents of the US Virgin Islands are now US citizens and carry US passports. They also use the US dollar and US laws.
St Croix was an agricultural powerhouse in the Caribbean until the 1960's when the local government decided it was time to industrialize. The island is now home to HOVENSA, one of the largest oil refineries in the world.
There is also a large distillery, the Cruzan Rum Distillery, which used to make rum from sugar cane grown on the island. Sugar cane, or its extract, molasses are now imported from the Dominican Republic to manufacture Southern Comfort and Cruzan Rum. Diageo is arranging to build a distillery there too in order to produce Captain Morgan Rum.
Residents of the island call themselves Crucians. However, there is a great deal of debate about what makes a 'real Crucian'. Many say that a Crucian is someone who was born and brought up on St Croix, while others claim that descendants of the slaves that the Danes took over in 16th and 17th Centuries are the only true Crucians.
Many Crucians can trace their ancestry back to Puerto Rico or other Virgin islands as the sugar cane industry attracted a lot of migrant workers in the 1930's, 40's and 50's. There was also an inflow of down-islanders (ie from other Caribbean islands), as the locals say, after the industrialization of St Croix in the US Virgin Islands in the 1960's and 1970's as tourism and petrol became more central to the economy.
aint Croix is the largest of the US Virgin Islands, which lie 1730 miles east south east of Miami and 93 miles west of Puerto Rico. This section of the Virgin Islands has belonged to the United States since 1917 when they were purchased from the Danish government for $25m in gold to safeguard American coasts from German U-boat attack.
At the time, it was feared that Germany would subjugate the islands and build submarine pens there in order to harass American supply shipping, which was essential to the allies in Europe during the First World War.
The US Virgin islands is a cluster of about 60 chiefly uninhabited islands, the four biggest of which are called St. Croix, St. Thomas, St. John and Water Island. (By the way, 'Saint' is pronounced in the English manner). The Islands' inhabitants, however, have other names for these four which are Twin City, Rock City, Love City and Small City respectively.
Christopher Columbus landed there on November 14th, 1493, but there is evidence of human habitation on the island going back to 5000 BC. In fact, the Arawaks and the Caribs made up the islands' populace, before the Europeans arrived.
Possession of St Croix and the other Virgin Islands changed a lot over the following centuries, but it became famous to many people as Santa Cruz, which is its Spanish name. As Santa Cruz, St Croix featured highly in 17th and 18th century stories of pirates and buccaneers on the Spanish Main.
In fact, after Spain initially took control of the island, it changed hands seven times; having been Spanish, British, French, Maltese, Dutch, Danish and now American. The residents of the US Virgin Islands are now US citizens and carry US passports. They also use the US dollar and US laws.
St Croix was an agricultural powerhouse in the Caribbean until the 1960's when the local government decided it was time to industrialize. The island is now home to HOVENSA, one of the largest oil refineries in the world.
There is also a large distillery, the Cruzan Rum Distillery, which used to make rum from sugar cane grown on the island. Sugar cane, or its extract, molasses are now imported from the Dominican Republic to manufacture Southern Comfort and Cruzan Rum. Diageo is arranging to build a distillery there too in order to produce Captain Morgan Rum.
Residents of the island call themselves Crucians. However, there is a great deal of debate about what makes a 'real Crucian'. Many say that a Crucian is someone who was born and brought up on St Croix, while others claim that descendants of the slaves that the Danes took over in 16th and 17th Centuries are the only true Crucians.
Many Crucians can trace their ancestry back to Puerto Rico or other Virgin islands as the sugar cane industry attracted a lot of migrant workers in the 1930's, 40's and 50's. There was also an inflow of down-islanders (ie from other Caribbean islands), as the locals say, after the industrialization of St Croix in the US Virgin Islands in the 1960's and 1970's as tourism and petrol became more central to the economy.
Kamis, 24 Juli 2014
Tropical Island Vacation
While country retreats, city breaks and resort escapes are all good, nothing beats the profligacy of an island get-away. With palms swaying in the wind, crisp white sand and beautiful turquoise waters, islands are a popular holiday spot for vacationers. Below are some beautiful locales that not only proffer breathtaking landscapes and effusive warm climate, but also feature leisure activities, adventure sports, and once-in-a-lifetime experiences.
Jamaica
Jamaica is an island nation situated in the Caribbean Sea. It is 234 kilometers in length and about 80 kilometers in width. This beautiful retreat provides an atmosphere of tranquility and harmony accented by marvelous natural beauty and eternal sunshine. For a small island, the diversity of the Jamaican landscape is quite remarkable.
Its topography varies from wide flatlands in the south to slender coastal plains and through the spectacular limestone scenery of the interior to the powerful Blue Mountains, which max out at about 2220m. The vegetation is abundant in the north and the beaches are all white sand, making the island tremendously attractive to vacationers. The island has some idyllic tropical vacation resorts, as well as luxury villas, some with private pools.
Hawaii
Floating amidst the Pacific Ocean, miles off the coast of USA, Hawaii has an area of about 4,028 square miles. Despite the small size, this tropical island is a world of wonders. With soaring cliffs to the huge chasms, Hawaii enchants the senses like no other island. One finds everything one requires to enjoy a tropical vacation here. There is tremendous natural beauty here such as blue beaches, magnificent volcanoes, stunning waterfalls, sanctuaries, etc. to contemporary wonders such as Hi-rise buildings, stadiums, and modern transportation facilities.
Hawaii is a beautiful resort destination with modern accommodations. The island has definitely paved the way to successful Tourism.
Island Of Sisley
The Island of Sisley is the largest Mediterranean island and an independent region of Italy, separated by the Strait of Messina. Sicily provides a vacationer with many amazing opportunities and makes for a great tropical vacation spot. Beside the varied landscape, there are several historical and cultural traces. There are valleys, green hills, and beautiful mountain offering ever-changing sights to nature lovers. The numerous historical monuments provide a glimpse of the culture of the Siculi, Romans, Greeks, Normans, Arabs, and Spaniards. The whole island is breathtakingly beautiful.
Sicily also offers glances of cultural heritage with Roman Amphitheaters, Greek temples, Castes and cathedrals, and the royal buildings in Palermo.
The Maldives
If your idea of a perfect tropical vacation is landing on a pristine island with beautiful palm trees, adventure sports, and white beaches abound with crystalline lagoons of different hues of blue, then a holiday in Maldives Islands will certainly make your dream come true.
Maldives is an island comprising of a cluster of atolls in the middle of the Indian Ocean. It is situated south of Lakshadweep islands, and is south-west of Sri Lanka. While staying in one of the many luxurious resorts in Maldives, one can have fun by participating in water sports like snorkeling, surfing, diving, and much more. Apart from this, this tropical vacation island brims with lush vegetation and all kinds of wild life.
Tropical islands provides extraordinary peace and calm that are so desperately sought by people living a 'big city life'. They are the perfect holiday destination catering to both the younger generation and older souls.
Top 5 Surf Spots in the Virgin Islands
Little is known about the awesome waves and surfs that grace the United States and British Virgin Islands during warm seasons. During this time, roughly from mid-November to late April, waves can reach up to eight-feet in height, and on bigger days may reach as high as double overhead. And although the VIs waters are pretty flat and un-surfable the rest of the year, passing storms on the Northern part can still create some pretty exciting surf.
Here are the top 5 surf spots in the Virgin Islands.
Sprat Bay, Water Island, USVI
A 10-minute ferry ride from St. Thomas, Water Island, is better known for swimming and snorkeling. However, Sprat Bay, near the Island's East End, has hollow, fast, and ledgy right point breaks that suit surfers of any skill level -- including beginners. Settled in a mostly undeveloped island, Sprat Bay does not draw in a heavy crowd; making it a good place for "limin'" (chilling and relaxing).
Hull Bay, St. Thomas, USVI
Hull Bay is perhaps the beach that's most associated with surfing in all of St. Thomas. Located on the island's Atlantic side, the bay produces four to ten-foot point/reef breaks from the swells that come from the Northeast. With fast and powerful ledgy left and right point breaks, as well as having a reef and coral bottom, Hull Bay is recommended only for experienced surfers.
Cane Garden Bay, Tortola, BVI
The point break at Cane Garden Bay generates strong waves wrapping around as they race down the harbour's inside bowl section. Although waves can reach heights of up to fifteen-feet, they need to be over five-feet before the break is surfable. The bay's inside reefs are exposed as the water sucks out, which can be quite risky for beginners.
Long Bay, Tortola, BVI
Long Bay is perfect if you are looking for family friendly surf. The bay is popular with kids and newbies because of its "learner's wave". The beach has long sections of shallow water and has a sandy bottom with soft rocks. Wall after wall of whitewater reforms after the waves break further out, which can be exciting for the kids.
Sandy Spit, Jost Van Dyke, BVI
Surfable four to fifteen-foot waves form as left-hand waves break in front of Sandy Spit. Waves at the Southern tip of this desert island paradise are small but long and curling round the point. The Spit has a coral bottom and have several reefs line up its shore; recommended for experienced surfers.
There are many more surfing spots in the Virgin Islands; some are conveniently located near big towns while some can only be reached by boats. If you ever feel the urge to ride some waves while in the VIs, these are the places to visit.
Langganan:
Postingan (Atom)